These Walls Around Me

We moved into a new place at the beginning of the year, down a block and over a street from where we’d been, overlooking Canal. I miss swinging open the heavy wood doors on the second floor of that house and watching the life of the street below. Our new place has its charms though. We have a courtyard, a roof top deck. Pretty fancy stuff for us. Haven’t been able to find the engine though.

It’s a spare place, tending toward the monastic, which is perfect us. There’s no knick knacks, no clutter, nothing on the walls even, save one image of Guadalupe. It suits us I think. It’s nice enough, but it seems obvious that this a place for people who are passing through, in every sense of the idea. We did our own temporary decorating.

We moved in a couple days before the new year. One nice thing about our one-bag-per-person lifestyle, moving is simple. Except for food. Pretty sure our new neighbors thought I was crazy schlepping bags of sauces and spices and flours and oils and vinegar down the street, but hey, we like to cook. And we wanted to spend the new year in a new place, which we did. With sparklers of course.

The streets here are cobblestone rivers threading canyons of smooth, watercolor concrete. The canyon walls rise on either side as you walk, one side offering shade, the other sun, their smooth contours running continuous, unbroken lines down the street, save the occasional door or window.

Sometimes it’s hard to tell where homes begin and end. Looking at photographs, you might assume that color changes in the canyon wall mark where one home ends and the next begins. Sometimes you’d be right. This can be misleading though — sometimes colors change for no reason, or don’t change at all from one house to the next for an entire block.

The doors aren’t much help either. It’s hard to know which door goes to which house, or even if they lead to a house at all. Many doors, usually double doors, open to courtyards like ours, or similar outdoor spaces, which offer an air-gap between home and world, making home feel at least a little removed from the bustle of the street.

Courtyards are one-way mirrors of sound. The street comes in. You hear everything. Less seems to go out. Walking down the streets you rarely hear noise coming out of the walls. Perhaps the noise of the street hides it, or perhaps a single family can’t make a enough noise to get it over the tops of the walls.

I do a lot of listening in the courtyard. It’s visually cut off from the world, but sound surges over the high yellow walls. Disconnected from the source, it’s only tiny parts of stories, never the whole thing. Inchoate beginnings, clipped endings, snippets of sound — brakes whining sharp and shrill, engines grinding gears, cracked mufflers growling, conversations drifting, doorbells buzzing, phones chiming, whistles, horns, bells, birds, buzzers.

On rare days when the wind blows, it seems oddly quiet on the street. The courtyard swirls with sound of rustling bamboo and clattering palm leaves, putting me back in southeast Asia, or wishing for the west coast of Mexico, the Yucatan, somewhere tropical, somewhere sandy, somewhere hot and humid, with watery winds, salt air, the unbroken horizon of the sea.

In our courtyard, near the door to the street there’s a cluster of bamboo stretching far above the broken-glass topped walls. The leafy crowns of bamboo play host to a flock of house sparrows every morning and every evening.

It’s a deafening chorus of feathers, a large enough flock to leave a significant amount of crap on the concrete below. Strangely though, you rarely actually see the birds. The bamboo isn’t particularly dense, but it’s enough to mask them. The balcony off our bedroom is roughly eye level with the top of the bamboo, and even from there it still takes concentrated effort to make them out. If you sit and stare, wait for your eyes to adjust to the subtlety of shadow and leaf and bird and light you slowly begin to make them out, singing, fluttering and bouncing among the leaves.

They’ve been here for a long time. One day I was walking back from the market, about to cross the street to our house, when I noticed a little girl walking, tugging on her mom’s dress, saying mama, mama, el arbol de los pájaros. Another day I was sitting at the table in the courtyard, drinking coffee when I heard a little girl’s voice drifting in from the street, roughly the same words, but in English.

You can set clocks by the sparrows, light clocks anyway. They are shadow singers. Like true Mexican birds, they don’t seem to care much about watch time, but they do sing at the same time everyday, with regard to the light. When the light in the evening reaches a certain point, when the tops of the bamboo are in shadow I think, and it seems obvious that dusk has settled on the world, they begin their farewell songs.

In the mornings, when it is light enough to see, but the sun hasn’t yet risen high enough to reach the bamboo, they sing again. Each time their singing and chattering lasts about twenty minutes and then they sort of fade out. In the mornings they don’t leave all at once, they trickle away in pairs and alone, which makes the noise of them seem to fade away, you don’t notice them leaving, just later, when they’re definitively gone.

They come back around the time we eat dinner and have their evening song and chattering, and then, I’m not sure, but I suspect they roost in the bamboo. It seems at tad rude to go out later at night and shine lights on them just to check a hunch, but I think they’re up there all night. I like to think of them still up there anyway, roosted down for the night, a ruffle of feathers tucked in a bamboo node here and there, sleeping, waiting for dawn, waiting to sing again.