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It was hot, but I had been jumping in the salt water shower every half hour or so and that, combined with the oscillating fan on the floor at the foot of the bed, made the heat tolerable. </p> -<p>I lay on the bed, legs sticking to sheets. I had been lying there for several hours, with my tiny laptop on the bed next to me, trying to figure out why the Gili Islands disturbed me so much, trying to put my finger on what about this place made me so uncomfortable. I never came up with a precise answer, which is why I’ve never written anything about Gili Trawangan. </p> -<p>I tried writing about everything I thought was wrong with the Gilis, but in the end it wasn’t the hordes of hippie tourists, the Australians behaving badly, the ridiculously overpriced food and lodging or even the cats — the only thing I’m really allergic to — everywhere on the island, nor was it even all of those things combined that bothered me.</p> -<p>On the face of it Gili Trawangan is quite nice. It’s small enough to walk around in a day and is surrounded by crystal clear water with a reef that could, with a bit of conservation effort, be quite remarkable. Sadly, it isn’t remarkable<sup id="fnr-001"><a href="#fn-001">[1]</a></sup>, but the few moments I did enjoy on Gili Trawangan were all moments when my head was underwater and I could willfully ignore everything on the beach behind me.</p> -<div class="picwide"> - <a itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" href="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2011/gili-trewangan-indonesia-2011-06-27_054651.jpg " title="view larger image"> - <img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2011/gili-trewangan-indonesia-2011-06-27_054651_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2011/gili-trewangan-indonesia-2011-06-27_054651_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2011/gili-trewangan-indonesia-2011-06-27_054651_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2011/gili-trewangan-indonesia-2011-06-27_054651_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Lombok as Viewed from Gili Trawangan, Indonesia photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2011/gili-trewangan-indonesia-2011-06-27_054651.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" > - </a> -</div> - -<p>It’s taken me months to realize what bothered me, but in the end it was clear. The problem with the Gili Islands is that they don’t really exist.</p> -<p>What I mean by that is that the Gilis are not islands you go to and experience, rather they are ideas about what islands ought to be brought to life. The Gili Islands exist as a backdrop on which tourists can act out their fantasies about what “paradise” ought to be.</p> -<p>It’s tempting to say there’s nothing wrong with that, and maybe there isn’t, but it isn’t what I look for when I travel. Don’t get me wrong, I didn’t mind the crowds of the Gilis. The Gilis certainly aren’t off the beaten path, but that’s also something I’ve never been too interested in. </p> -<p>What interests me when I travel is the normal. It’s been my experience that while the world is huge, it happens in very small, ordinary moments. I’m interested in seeing how things are done in all nooks and crooks of the planet. I enjoy seeing the daily life that happens on every street everywhere around the world. It’s been my experience that every street, every park, every square has it’s own form of ordinary and that any of it exists at all is extraordinary.</p> -<p>Looking for the ordinary has shaped the way I travel over the years. It’s taught me to avoid the guesthouse when possible, to rent apartments where I can and to try to get to know blocks rather than neighborhoods, neighborhoods rather than cities. It’s taught me that guidebooks are generally wrong and what you’ll remember afterward are usually not things you’d planned to do. </p> -<p>I have no problem with popular tourist destinations, some of them are quite amazing — there’s a reason Pompeii and Angkor Wat are popular, because they’re amazing places — but they aren’t what motivate me to leave home. </p> -<p>I realized months after I’d left the Gilis that I’ve never really been interested in the quest to find paradise. I own a house in what I consider a paradise. Athens GA is not perfect, but it’s pretty near to paradise for me. If I were looking for paradise I wouldn’t leave town much<sup id="fnr-002"><a href="#fn-002">[2]</a></sup></p> -<p>And that in the end is what the Gili Islands have to offer, a collective idea of what paradise looks like. The Gilis are a collection of paradise fantasies culled from decades of hippie travelers, scuba divers, honeymooners, and the rich, lost children of the West. </p> -<p>I eventually realized that the thing that made me uncomfortable, the thing that kept me up on what turned out to be our last night on Gili Trawangan, was the realization that <em>this exists because I am here. I am, however much against my will, now responsible for this. My money has now helped perpetuate this place.</em> I would not want to deny any paradise seeker the opportunity to act out their fantasy on the Gilis, but I prefer to be left out of it. Places like the Gilis can get along just fine without me. </p> -<ol class="footnote"> -<li id="fn-001"> -<p><span class="note1">Constantly dropping anchors on coral destroys reefs and, despite no shortage of mooring, nearly every boat that I saw pull into Gili Trawangan dropped anchor.</span><a href="#fnr-001" class="footnoteBackLink" title="Jump back to footnote 1 in the text.">↩</a></p> -</li> -<li id="fn-002"> -<p><span class="note2">By the same token if there comes a day when I no longer think Athens is a paradise I will pick up and leave.</span><a href="#fnr-002" class="footnoteBackLink" title="Jump back to footnote 2 in the text.">↩</a></p> -</li> -</ol> - </div> - - </article> - - - <div class="nav-wrapper"> - <nav id="page-navigation" class="page-border-top"> - <ul> - <li id="prev"><span class="bl">Previous:</span> - <a href="/jrnl/2011/06/best-snorkeling-world" rel="prev" title=" The Best Snorkeling in the World">The Best Snorkeling in the World</a> - </li> - <li id="next"><span class="bl">Next:</span> - <a href="/jrnl/2012/03/street-food-athens-georgia" rel="next" title=" Street Food in Athens Georgia">Street Food in Athens Georgia</a> - </li> - </ul> - </nav> - </div> - - - - - - -<p class="comments--header">7 Comments</p> - - - - - - - <div class="comments--wrapper"> - - <div id="comment-14" class="comment"> - <noscript class="datahashloader" data-hash="default"> - <img class="gravatar" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/gravcache/default.jpg" alt="gravatar icon for Ally Potter" /> - </noscript> - <div class="comment--head"> - <span class="who"><b><a href="http://oneseventyfour.wordpress.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Ally Potter</a></b></span> - <span class="when">January 17, 2015 at 1:51 a.m.</span> - </div> - - <div class="comment--body"> - - <p>Loved this post. Felt that I would feel the same, so hit up Nusa Lembongan instead and am currently sat reading your blog overlooking the serene ocean and feeling contented. Great blog!</p> - - </div> - </div> - - <div id="comment-18" class="comment"> - <noscript class="datahashloader" data-hash="d64f4854965b2b1c3ecafee4b2a66fac"> - <img class="gravatar" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/gravcache/d64f4854965b2b1c3ecafee4b2a66fac.jpg" alt="gravatar icon for Scott" /> - </noscript> - <div class="comment--head"> - <span class="who"><b><a href="https://luxagraf.net/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Scott</a></b></span> - <span class="when">January 22, 2015 at 8:18 p.m.</span> - </div> - - <div class="comment--body"> - - <p>@Ally-</p> -<p>Thanks for stopping by and I’m glad you like the site. </p> -<p>I hope you enjoy your time in Nusa, it is much, much better than the Gilis. I also hope that the internet on Nusa is faster than it used to be otherwise I fear luxagraf might be loading pretty slowly….</p> - - </div> - </div> - - <div id="comment-442" class="comment"> - <noscript class="datahashloader" data-hash="a73931c666b830f80060c6dff0693c63"> - <img class="gravatar" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/gravcache/a73931c666b830f80060c6dff0693c63.jpg" alt="gravatar icon for Laura Truelove" /> - </noscript> - <div class="comment--head"> - <span class="who"><b><a href="http://trueloves-travels.blogspot.co.uk" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Laura Truelove</a></b></span> - <span class="when">August 11, 2015 at 11:28 a.m.</span> - </div> - - <div class="comment--body"> - - <p>I’ve recently returned from a two month journey backpacking around Bali, and found myself spending four nights on Gili Trawangan (although I originally wanted to go to Gili Air as I’d heard this island was more beautiful, I mistakenly purchased a ticket for Gili T). I felt this similar feeling of disturbance whilst on the island and wasn’t sure whether this boiled down to the horribly mistreated horses they use as transport. I couldn’t have found any way to sum up that feeling in my own words, but you somehow managed to do it in yours. Great read!</p> - - </div> - </div> - - <div id="comment-447" class="comment"> - <noscript class="datahashloader" data-hash="d64f4854965b2b1c3ecafee4b2a66fac"> - <img class="gravatar" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/gravcache/d64f4854965b2b1c3ecafee4b2a66fac.jpg" alt="gravatar icon for Scott" /> - </noscript> - <div class="comment--head"> - <span class="who"><b><a href="https://luxagraf.net/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Scott</a></b></span> - <span class="when">August 12, 2015 at 10:03 a.m.</span> - </div> - - <div class="comment--body"> - - <p>@Laura-</p> -<p>Ah yes, the horses, I didn’t even get around to mentioning that. </p> -<p>Re-reading this now this post feels a little bit entitled on my part, but I dunno, some places, I guess they’re just not for me.</p> -<p>Anyway, hope you had fun in the rest of your travels and I added your site to my RSS reader.</p> - - </div> - </div> - - <div id="comment-1382" class="comment"> - <noscript class="datahashloader" data-hash="default"> - <img class="gravatar" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/gravcache/default.jpg" alt="gravatar icon for sean" /> - </noscript> - <div class="comment--head"> - <span class="who"><b>sean</b></span> - <span class="when">January 08, 2016 at 8:30 a.m.</span> - </div> - - <div class="comment--body"> - - <p>well put mate - manufactured paradise really doesn’t do it for me either and again I agree with you about staying somewhere for a few days and getting know the place your in - blocks, neighbourhood - rather than flying through and ticking off places… thanks for the report ( ps Spent time on Gili T and Lembongan myself - Lembongan definitely getting another visit - pretty sure Gili T won’t be)</p> - - </div> - </div> - - <div id="comment-2229" class="comment"> - <noscript class="datahashloader" data-hash="default"> - <img class="gravatar" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/gravcache/default.jpg" alt="gravatar icon for Michel K" /> - </noscript> - <div class="comment--head"> - <span class="who"><b>Michel K</b></span> - <span class="when">January 01, 2017 at 2:24 a.m.</span> - </div> - - <div class="comment--body"> - - <p>Thank you for this excellently written post. In fact, I was wondering about exactly the same ideas while walking from the east side of the island to its west. I had to pass by the “residential areas” and saw how unjust this world is. And when I arrived to the famous “sunset point”, I was thinking: “is it just me or is this island the worst destination on the planet?” I googled that thought and there you showed up. Thanks again.</p> - - </div> - </div> - - <div id="comment-2230" class="comment"> - <noscript class="datahashloader" data-hash="d64f4854965b2b1c3ecafee4b2a66fac"> - <img class="gravatar" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/gravcache/d64f4854965b2b1c3ecafee4b2a66fac.jpg" alt="gravatar icon for Scott" /> - </noscript> - <div class="comment--head"> - <span class="who"><b><a href="https://luxagraf.net/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Scott</a></b></span> - <span class="when">January 01, 2017 at 12:28 p.m.</span> - </div> - - <div class="comment--body"> - - <p>Michel- Glad you enjoyed the post, if not the islands. </p> -<p>I need to get this post to show up in google searches that people do <em>before</em> they go to Gili T.</p> -<p>sean- glad you liked it. And yes, I’d definitely go back to nusa lembongan.</p> - - </div> - </div> - - </div> - - -<div class="comment--form--wrapper comment-form-border"> - -<div class="comment--form--header"> - <p class="hed">Thoughts?</p> - <p class="subhed">Please leave a reply:</p> -</div> -<form action="/comments/post/" method="post" class="comment--form"> - -<input type="hidden" name="rder" value="" /> - - - <input type="hidden" name="content_type" value="jrnl.entry" id="id_content_type"> - - - - <input type="hidden" name="object_pk" value="129" id="id_object_pk"> - - - - <input type="hidden" name="timestamp" value="1596833455" id="id_timestamp"> - - - - <input type="hidden" name="security_hash" value="77a867f637ea6ca51a819050c91aa37ad411f281" id="id_security_hash"> - - - - <fieldset > - <label for="id_name">Name:</label> - <input type="text" name="name" maxlength="50" required id="id_name"> - </fieldset> - - - - <fieldset > - <label for="id_email">Email address:</label> - <input type="email" name="email" required id="id_email"> - </fieldset> - - - - <fieldset > - <label for="id_url">URL:</label> - <input type="url" name="url" id="id_url"> - </fieldset> - - - - <fieldset > - <label for="id_comment">Comment:</label> - <div class="textarea-rounded"><textarea name="comment" cols="40" rows="10" maxlength="3000" required id="id_comment"> -</textarea></div> - </fieldset> - - - - <fieldset style="display:none;"> - <label for="id_honeypot">If you enter anything in this field your comment will be treated as spam:</label> - <input type="text" name="honeypot" id="id_honeypot"> - </fieldset> - - - <div class="submit"> - <input type="submit" name="post" class="submit-post btn" value="Post" /> - <input type="submit" name="preview" class="submit-preview btn" value="Preview" /> - </div> -</form> -<p style="font-size: 95%;"><strong>All comments are moderated</strong>, so you won’t see it right away. 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