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<h1 class="p-name entry-title post-title" itemprop="headline">Stone Crabs</h1>
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<h3 class="h-adr" itemprop="address" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/PostalAddress"><span class="p-locality locality" itemprop="addressLocality">Topsail State Park</span>, <a class="p-region region" href="/jrnl/united-states/" title="travel writing from the United States">Florida</a>, <span class="p-country-name" itemprop="addressCountry">U.S.</span></h3>
– <a href="" onclick="showMap(30.369027769355675, -86.29487270622111, { type:'point', lat:'30.369027769355675', lon:'-86.29487270622111'}); return false;" title="see a map">Map</a>
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<time class="dt-published published dt-updated post-date" datetime="2018-03-20T09:13:47" itemprop="datePublished">March <span>20, 2018</span></time>
<span class="hide" itemprop="author" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person">by <a class="p-author h-card" href="/about"><span itemprop="name">Scott Gilbertson</span></a></span>
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<p>After enjoying such a <a href="/jrnl/2018/03/green-sea-days">nice slice of wilderness</a>, we were bound to be a little disappointed returning to the crowds.</p>
<p>As we headed back to the coastline we found ourselves among two peculiar breeds of American tourist, spring break partygoers in rented convertibles and snow birds in massive RVs. </p>
<p>To provide maximum contrast between wild and crowded, we headed first to a place called Topsail State Park and RV Resort. And yes, it really was an RV Resort — full hookups, pool, the whole bit, but inside a state park. It was the strangest campground we’ve been in and not really our scene you could say. When my wife asked if there was a trail to the beach the woman at the counter looked at her like she was crazy and apparently the first person here to contemplate walking a whole mile. There was naturally a road, complete with shuttle, that could take you to beach.</p>
<p>The minute Corrinne said there was a pool I knew I’d never see the beach anyway. For the kids, at this point, white sand beaches happen pretty much all the time, but pools? Pools are exotic and enticing, even when they’re the coldest pool any of us had ever set foot in. </p>
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<img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142041_topsail-state-park_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142041_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142041_topsail-state-park_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142041_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Pool, Topsail State Beach, Florida photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-22_142041_topsail-state-park.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" >
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<a itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" href="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-22_142231_topsail-state-park.jpg " title="view larger image">
<img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142231_topsail-state-park_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142231_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142231_topsail-state-park_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-22_142231_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Pool, Topsail State Beach, Florida photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-22_142231_topsail-state-park.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" data-jslghtbx-caption="It was cold, take-your-breath-away cold.">
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<figcaption>It was cold, take-your-breath-away cold.</figcaption>
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<p>Topsail certainly isn’t a destination for Spring Breakers, though we drove through plenty of that crowd on our way, especially in Destin. Topsail drew in the snow birds. I lost count of midwestern license plates, Ohio, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Minnesota, and South Dakota, but those are fulltime people<sup id="fnref:1"><a class="footnote-ref" href="#fn:1" rel="footnote">1</a></sup>. And there were some truly massive rigs, with square footage well over the average Parisian apartment. I’ve nothing against big rigs really, it seems very limiting to me, but hey, to each their own, still, it was odd to be around such mammoth vehicles.</p>
<p>I’m not really sure how we ended up with a spot here in the first place. Corrinne had been refreshing the reservation page the whole time we were at East Bay and finally found something, a cancellation we were able to snatch up for a couple of days.</p>
<p>The pool entertained the kids, and we did make it out the beach one afternoon. We walked. It was a nice beach, though pretty crowded with people and high-rise hotels just down the shore in either direction. But if you stared out at the sea and squinted a bit, it looked more or less like Gulf Islands National Seashore.</p>
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<img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152318_topsail-state-park_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152318_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152318_topsail-state-park_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152318_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Topsail State Beach, Florida photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-21_152318_topsail-state-park.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" >
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<img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152414_topsail-state-park_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152414_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152414_topsail-state-park_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152414_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Topsail State Beach, Florida photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-21_152414_topsail-state-park.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" >
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<img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152256_topsail-state-park_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152256_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152256_topsail-state-park_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_152256_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Topsail State Beach, Florida photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-21_152256_topsail-state-park.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" >
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<p>The influx of Northerners and Midwesterns brought a return of what I call the stone-faced walk-by, which I thought we’d left behind in California. </p>
<p>Imagine you’re walking down a trail, or a path, a nice sun-bleached wood plank boardwalk over some dunes say, and someone else is approaching you. Now nearly everywhere I’ve been on this planet, in dozens of cultures, with dozens of language barriers, in nearly every case, everyone at least smiles and maybe attempts to exchange pleasantries, even if the latter are not maybe completely understood. </p>
<p>In parts of America though there’s another approach: the stone-faced walk-by. </p>
<p>In this scenario you not only don’t smile or exchange pleasantries. Instead you don’t acknowledge the other person at all. You completely avoid making eye contact because you’re very concerned about something over… there, anywhere really, except the direction of the approaching person. You find this spot to stare at, like it’s the guiding light that will get you through, past the terror of interacting with other people, without actually interacting, like a child who closes her eyes and momentarily pretends that nothing around her exists. And then you slide on by the other person without acknowledging their existence in any way. </p>
<p>It’s fascinating to watch, bizarre and a little disconcerting to experience. It helps to narrate the whole thing in your head using the voice of David Attenborough. Sometimes I swear you can almost hear the approaching person’s subvocalization: please don’t talk to please don’t talk to me please don’t talk to me.</p>
<p>It’s strange, very strange. But then maybe it’s the place, not the people. I didn’t notice it the time, but I ended up with pictures of the kids looking hilariously (and unintentionally) angsty while playing on the beach. </p>
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<img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_150504_topsail-state-park_JgU1k4V_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_150504_topsail-state-park_JgU1k4V_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_150504_topsail-state-park_JgU1k4V_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-21_150504_topsail-state-park_JgU1k4V_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Topsail State Beach, Florida photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-21_150504_topsail-state-park_JgU1k4V.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" >
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<p>Different places bring out different things in you. I have a post about that, but that’s for another day. For now I’ll just say that Topsail was an oddball place; we didn’t dislike it exactly, but I think we were all ready to move on when our three nights were up.</p>
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<img class="u-photo" itemprop="contentUrl" sizes="(max-width: 1439px) 100vw, (min-width: 1440px) 1440px" srcset="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-23_062841_topsail-state-park_picwide-sm.jpg 720w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-23_062841_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg 1170w, https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-23_062841_topsail-state-park_picwide.jpg 2880w" src="https://images.luxagraf.net/2018/2018-03-23_062841_topsail-state-park_picwide-med.jpg" alt="Alban Eilir eggs, Topsail State Beach, Florida photographed by luxagraf" data-jslghtbx="https://images.luxagraf.net/original/2018/2018-03-23_062841_topsail-state-park.jpg" data-jslghtbx-group="group" data-jslghtbx-caption="Equinox eggs">
</a>
<figcaption>Equinox eggs</figcaption>
</figure>
<div class="footnote">
<hr>
<ol>
<li id="fn:1">
<p>A lot of full time people make South Dakota their state of residence. Just as Delaware attracts corporations with tax breaks and easy incorporation processes, South Dakota has (purposefully or not, I’m not sure) made it easy to be a resident, and even get mail, without needing to actually be in the state more than once every few years. So when you see an RV with South Dakota plates, chances are, that’s a full timer. <a class="footnote-backref" href="#fnref:1" rev="footnote" title="Jump back to footnote 1 in the text">↩</a></p>
</li>
</ol>
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<div class="entry-footer">
<aside id="wildlife">
<h3>Fauna and Flora</h3>
<ul>
<li class="grouper">Birds<ul>
<li>Brown Pelican </li>
<li>Eastern Towhee </li>
<li>Great Blue Heron </li>
<li><a href="/dialogues/laughing-gull">Laughing Gull</a> </li>
<li>Least Tern </li>
<li><a href="/dialogues/northern-cardinal">Northern Cardinal</a> </li>
<li>Ring-billed Gull </li>
</ul>
<li class="grouper">Mammals<ul>
<li>Eastern gray squirrel </li>
<li>Cottontail rabbit </li>
</ul>
</ul>
</aside>
<aside class="margin-left-none" id="field_notes">
<h3>Field Notes</h3>
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<li><a href="/field-notes/2018/03/big-rigs">Big Rigs</a></li>
</ul>
</aside>
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</article>
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<p class="comments--header">4 Comments</p>
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<span class="who"><b>Lou</b></span>
<span class="when">April 02, 2018 at 1:29 p.m.</span>
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<p>I have missed seeing y’all’s cute camper when I drive down Holman, but really enjoyed reading about your adventures. If you have a slideshow party (I guess it’d be more of a PowerPoint party?) when you get back, please invite me :) ~Lou</p>
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<span class="who"><b>classical_liberal</b></span>
<span class="when">April 04, 2018 at 8:45 a.m.</span>
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<p>I’ve spent some time is South Dakota. In the West around Rapid City it’s dominated with Libertarian types. Preppers, tattooed bikers, the modern hippy. On the East near Sioux Falls are the more socially “proper” Red Staters. In between you have Indian Reservations and ranchers. None of these folks like government being in their business, so it makes for a very deregulated state. Nice for RVer’s… could also be a good state of “residence” (as defined by SD law in a very deregulated manner) for travel nurses who like a place which allows for a multi-state RN license without continuing education requirements and no income taxes. If one were so inclined :)</p>
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<span class="who"><b><a href="https://luxagraf.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Scott</a></b></span>
<span class="when">April 04, 2018 at 9:51 a.m.</span>
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<div class="comment--body">
<p>@lou-</p>
<p>We’ll be in Athens next month, we’d love to meet up with you at some point. We thought about having some sort of party, I don’t know about a slideshow :-), but a party at least. </p>
<p>So far though we haven’t gone beyond just thinking, oh, hey, that’d be good idea. But if we do get our act together I’ll let you know.</p>
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<span class="who"><b><a href="https://luxagraf.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Scott</a></b></span>
<span class="when">April 04, 2018 at 9:53 a.m.</span>
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<div class="comment--body">
<p>@classic_liberal-</p>
<p>As much as I will be sorry to no longer officially be a Georgian, it just doesn’t make financial sense for us to have residency anywhere but South Dakota. We’ll probably change it this summer, we’re headed that way anyway.</p>
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