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<h1 class="p-name entry-title post-title" itemprop="headline">Sounds of San Miguel</h1>
<h2 class="post-subtitle">Everything is music</h2>
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<h3 class="h-adr" itemprop="address" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/PostalAddress"><span class="p-region" itemprop="addressRegion">San Miguel de Allende</span>, <a class="p-country-name country-name" href="/jrnl/mexico/" title="travel writing from Mexico"><span itemprop="addressCountry">Mexico</span></a></h3>
– <a href="" onclick="showMap(20.913850228186757, -100.75087470629798, { type:'point', lat:'20.913850228186757', lon:'-100.75087470629798'}); return false;" title="see a map">Map</a>
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<time class="dt-published published dt-updated post-date" datetime="2019-01-11T09:43:04" itemprop="datePublished">January <span>11, 2019</span></time>
<span class="hide" itemprop="author" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person">by <a class="p-author h-card" href="/about"><span itemprop="name">Scott Gilbertson</span></a></span>
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<p>In California I only ever met my neighbors after an earthquake. In Georgia it was big snowstorms that brought everyone together. In Massachusetts it took the first Red Sox victory in 86 years for me to meet my upstairs neighbor. </p>
<p>Down here the trash truck brings everyone together every morning.</p>
<p>One of the men hops off the truck at each stop and walks ahead, banging a bell up and down the street. It’s not really a bell, though it sounds like one. It’s a hunk of metal the size of reporter’s notepad, which he beats with a broken bit of pipe that clangs and echoes off the concrete facades. There is no mistaking when the trash man cometh. Assuming you know what the sound means. </p>
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<p>That’s how trash is done here, you bring it to the truck yourself. You hear the bell, grab your trash and then stand in line with your neighbors, awaiting the trash truck. Everyone says hello, everyone chats. Some raised an eyebrow at me in the beginning, a gringo bringing out the trash. Unexpected apparently. After a few days people started to say buenos dias to me as well, commenting on the chill of the desert mornings, and then turning to ask after their other neighbors. </p>
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<p>San Miguel has a reputation for being a bright and colorful colonial town, with good reason. Still, what I end up noticing when I walk around is the kaleidoscope of sound that bounces around amidst all those colors. Not the random noise of chaos in a city, though there is that, but out of that comes organized sounds — the bells, chimes, whistles, and clangs that mean something. There’s always a melody drifting around the corner, down the alleys, always someone signaling their whereabouts.</p>
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<p>Even in our courtyard, <a href="/jrnl/2019/01/these-walls-around-me">sounds drift in</a> and the kids know now, sound has meaning. They always want to open the courtyard doors and discover the source of whatever reaches us. Every morning they yell, <em>Daddy, trash man is here</em>. But the trash man isn’t the only one announcing his arrival.</p>
<p>The knife man comes by in the afternoons. You know him by the piercing whistle he plays. He carries what looks like a miniature pipe organ, similar to indigenous flutes I’ve seen elsewhere. Whatever it is, it’s an unmistakable calling card. Grab your knife and head out the door to get it sharpened.</p>
<p>The propane tank guys aren’t so creative. They blast a musical spiel that I assume is some sort of sales pitch, though I can’t understand it. It’s not the Spanish that’s hard, it’s because it’s played out of what sounds like a New York City subway announcement speaker. It squawks and buzzes in roughly four-four time with a scratchy harmony, and that’s when you know the truck with all the propane tanks is near. Not to be confused with the propane truck, which is one giant tank of propane, and must be summoned by phone.</p>
<p>Bells, softer bells you won’t notice if the windows are closed, are generally pushcart vendors of some kind, helado or elote or pina or who knows. </p>
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<p>The honey hawkers shout, miel, <em>miel!</em> The shrimp man, whose son usually carries the bucket of shrimp, cups his hands and yells something that vaguely resembles the word camarones, but we live in a desert and for a long time I thought I must be mishearing him. But no, it is a bucket of camarones on ice.</p>
<p>The water truck is silent. The delivery man holds everything in his head, knows who needs what and delivers it all without any signifying sound. I want to tell him he should leave a few empties on the outside of the truck, they’d drone all down the road, but my Spanish isn’t that good, besides, maybe silence is his calling card.</p>
</div>
<div class="entry-footer">
<aside id="wildlife">
<h3>Fauna and Flora</h3>
<ul>
<li class="grouper">Birds<ul>
<li>American Coot </li>
<li>Bewick's Wren </li>
<li>Blue-gray Gnatcatcher </li>
<li>Broad-billed Hummingbird </li>
<li>Cassin's Kingbird </li>
<li>Cattle Egret </li>
<li>Crested Caracara </li>
<li>House Sparrow </li>
<li>House Wren </li>
<li>Inca Dove </li>
<li>Northern Shoveler </li>
<li>Ring-necked Duck </li>
<li>Ruddy Duck </li>
<li>Vermilion Flycatcher </li>
<li>Violet-crowned Hummingbird </li>
<li>White-faced Ibis </li>
<li>White-tailed Kite </li>
<li>White-winged Dove </li>
</ul>
</ul>
</aside>
</div>
</article>
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<a href="/jrnl/2019/01/these-walls-around-me" rel="prev" title=" These Walls Around Me">These Walls Around Me</a>
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<li id="next"><span class="bl">Next:</span>
<a href="/jrnl/2019/02/candlelaria-in-san-miguel" rel="next" title=" Rite of Spring">Rite of Spring</a>
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<p class="p-author author hide" itemprop="author"><span class="byline-author" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person"><span itemprop="name">Scott Gilbertson</span></span></p>
<p class="post-summary">
<span class="p-location h-adr adr post-location" itemprop="contentLocation" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Place">
Tennessee
</span>
–
<time class="dt-published published dt-updated post-date" datetime="2018-05-30T14:52:12"><span> 2018</span></time>
</p>
</a>
</li>
<li class="article-card-mini"><a href="/jrnl/2017/07/time-and-placement" title="Time and Placement">
<div class="post-image post-mini-image">
<img sizes="(max-width: 728px) 100vw, (min-width: 729px) 520px"
srcset="/media/images/2017/2017-07-24_211753_durango-parents_featured_jrnl.jpg 520w, /media/images/2017/2017-07-24_211753_durango-parents_picwide-sm.jpg 720w"
src="/media/images/2017/2017-07-24_211753_durango-parents_featured_jrnl.jpg"
alt="forest, junction creek, co photographed by luxagraf"
>
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<h4 class="p-name entry-title post-title" itemprop="headline">Time and Placement</h4>
<p class="p-author author hide" itemprop="author"><span class="byline-author" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person"><span itemprop="name">Scott Gilbertson</span></span></p>
<p class="post-summary">
<span class="p-location h-adr adr post-location" itemprop="contentLocation" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Place">
Colorado
</span>
–
<time class="dt-published published dt-updated post-date" datetime="2017-07-24T17:50:11"><span> 2017</span></time>
</p>
</a>
</li>
<li class="article-card-mini"><a href="/jrnl/2017/05/new-orleans-instrumental-number-1" title="New Orleans Instrumental Number 1">
<div class="post-image post-mini-image">
<img sizes="(max-width: 728px) 100vw, (min-width: 729px) 520px"
srcset="/media/images/2017/2017-05-10_131547_new-orleans_01_featured_jrnl.jpg 520w, /media/images/2017/2017-05-10_131547_new-orleans_01_picwide-sm.jpg 720w"
src="/media/images/2017/2017-05-10_131547_new-orleans_01_featured_jrnl.jpg"
alt="Walking Decatur st new orleans photographed by luxagraf"
>
</div>
<h4 class="p-name entry-title post-title" itemprop="headline">New Orleans Instrumental Number 1</h4>
<p class="p-author author hide" itemprop="author"><span class="byline-author" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person"><span itemprop="name">Scott Gilbertson</span></span></p>
<p class="post-summary">
<span class="p-location h-adr adr post-location" itemprop="contentLocation" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Place">
Louisiana
</span>
–
<time class="dt-published published dt-updated post-date" datetime="2017-05-12T14:52:02"><span> 2017</span></time>
</p>
</a>
</li>
</ul>
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<p class="comments--header">4 Comments</p>
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<div id="comment-3847" class="comment">
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<span class="who"><b>DREW ELDRIDGE</b></span>
<span class="when">March 13, 2019 at 9:34 a.m.</span>
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<p>“Bring out Ye dead”.</p>
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<span class="who"><b>Gwen</b></span>
<span class="when">March 13, 2019 at 1:32 p.m.</span>
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<p>Interesting post. Thanks for including audio. I liked the O’Neill allusion.</p>
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<span class="who"><b><a href="https://luxagraf.net/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Scott</a></b></span>
<span class="when">March 13, 2019 at 2:09 p.m.</span>
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<p>Drew-</p>
<p>Haha, yeah haven’t heard that one fortunately.</p>
<p>Gwen-</p>
<p>So I had to google that, but I’m assuming you mean Eugene O’Neill.</p>
<p>I have to admit, that was not a conscious allusion. I’m not that clever alas. I did wonder where I got that line from though. It seemed a little pretentious, but I left it because it reminded me of something. Thanks for figuring out what :)</p>
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<span class="who"><b><a href="https://luxagraf.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Scott</a></b></span>
<span class="when">March 18, 2019 at 11:41 a.m.</span>
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<p>Drew-</p>
<p>On further listening, I realized there is, sadly, essentially that — single shots of fireworks generally keep pace with funeral processions from the church to graveyard.</p>
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