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---
title: Engine turns but won't start.
date: 2016-03-02
source: http://vagabond101.com/engine-turns-over-but-wont-start.html
tags: travco
---
Lucy was running great on the way to work, but when I went to go home she would not start. Usually this is just a simple fix of holding open the choke. Well not this time. She would turn over with no problem, but she just wouldn't start. I tried until I ran her battery down. The next day, I charged her battery and began the process of elimination. There are only four reasons this engine will not start: 1. Fuel, 2. Spark, 3. Air, 4. Compression.
The very first thing you should do is make sure you are not out of gas. Once you are positive that you have gas move on. Below is the order you use to find the source of the problem. If your vehicle has been running fine and drove you wherever you were going and now just won't start; It turns over just fine, but doesn't even try to start running. I will save you a bunch of time by telling you to replace your ballast resistor. It is located on the firewall behind the brake fluid reservoir in Lucy. It is a little ceramic block that has two wires that clip on both sides, with one screw that holds the block to the firewall. It costs about nine dollars, and even if this is not the problem, you should keep one in your glove box just in case. Because when it goes out, and it will when you least suspect it, it is way easier if you already have it on hand. If it is not your Ballast Resistor follow the instructions below.
1. Check the battery for any signs of damage, like cracks or corrosive build up. If it is damaged, replace it. If it is dirty, clean it. Once you have done that check the charge using a voltmeter. It should read above 12.0. If it is below 11.71 it does not have enough power to start the vehicle and should be charged.
2. Check the connections by turning on your headlights on high and wiggling the battery cables. If the lights flicker, clean the clamps and post. Make sure when you reattach them that you tighten them well. Test it again, if nothing changes check the battery cables for cracks, and bad connections at the engine ground and starter. Tighten the connections or get new cables.
3. If it's not the battery, it might be the Ignition Switch. The way you test this is by connecting a jumper wire from the negative (-) post of the power coil to a good ground (Any clean metal on the engine), and the positive (+) post of the power coil to a 12V test light. Then ground the test light. Disconnect the lead cable that goes to the distributor. Turn the ignition switch on and jiggle the key. If it lights up the switch is fine and you should replace your Ballast Resistor. If it flickers, replace the switch. If it doesn't light up at all, make sure your jumper wire and light are hooked up well and try again. If it still doesn't light up, remove the ignition and test it using a continuity tester and replace it if it doesn't work.
4. Check for spark at the plugs. Check each spark plug for spark by removing the spark plug cable and, using heavy gloves, hold it about a 1/4" from a good ground. Turn on the ignition and watch the spark. A good spark will be white and consistent, a poor spark will be orange and intermittent. If you get a good spark, check the distributor cap and rotor for burns, cracks, corrosion, and moisture. If it's wet dry it, and retest. If the cap or rotor are damaged, replace them both and retest. If you still get a weak spark, replace all the spark plug cables and test again.
5. If you did not check to make sure you had gas at the very beginning, do it now. Also, check it at the carburetor. Do this by looking into the carb and pressing the accelerator and watching to see if gas is squirted into the carb.
If your vehicle is still not running then more than likely you have a much larger problem on your hands. Keep in mind that this is for an engine that was running earlier in the day, and has an engine that turns over normally. I hope this helps you.
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