path: root/bookmarks/the super cat alcohol stove.txt

---
title: The Super Cat Alcohol Stove
date: 2015-11-30T14:30:41Z
source: http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/
tags: backpacking, camping, projects

---

A simple-to-make, hot-burning, backcountry stove

The Super Cat Alcohol Stove

[4]By Jim Wood

Originally published January 29, 2005
Major update November 18, 2008

Last revised March 4, 2011

[5]Printable PDF version available here (1.0mb)

[6]Submit or read comments about this article here
  __________________________________________________________________

Originally developed in early 2004, the Super Cat alcohol stove was
first shared with the online backpacking community in January, 2005.
Since then, it's become one of the most popular do-it-yourself alcohol
stoves among hikers worldwide for probably two reasons: it works
exceptionally well and it's very easy to make.

This update to the [7]original article is intended to incorporate many
of the design ideas that Super Cat users have contributed over the
years, as well as to expand the scope to include new information about
build techniques, fuels, windscreens, stands and other accessories.

It's also being published concurrently with a new article entitled
"[8]The Fire Bucket Stove System", which introduces a companion product
that can serve either as a high performance windscreen for the Super
Cat (and most other alcohol heaters), or a stand-alone stove that is
capable of burning wood and solid fuel tablets--all at a weight (in its
lightest implementations) of about two ounces.

When used together, the Super Cat and Fire Bucket form an efficient,
lightweight, integrated stove system that's easy to make and fun to
operate.

You can navigate directly to each chapter using the links below.

                             [9]Background

                       [10]Alcohol Stove Designs

                   [11]Disclaimers and Safety Notes

                             [12]Materials

                               [13]Tools

                   [14]Super Cat Build Instructions

                          [15]Super Cat Fuels

                   [16]Starting and Using the Stove

                            [17]Accessories

                             [18]Resources

  __________________________________________________________________

Background
  __________________________________________________________________

More than a century after the venerable Svea kerosene stove first went
into production, one might reasonably wonder why backcountry stoves,
like so many other mature products, haven't coalesced around one or two
successful design technologies.

Instead, today's backpackers still burn white gas, kerosene, diesel,
automotive gas, jet fuel, propane, solid fuel tablets, butane/propane
mixes, wood, paraffin, mineral spirits, vegetable oils, methanol,
ethanol, and isopropyl alcohol in a huge variety of stove types.

So why still so many choices? I guess simply because no one has yet
been able to come up with an all-in-one design that can meet the wide
range of environmental, fuel availability, weight, cooking, and safety
requirements of today's hikers.

The future may belong to an atomic fusion stove that weighs two ounces
and can run for a hundred years on one gram of fuel, but in the
meantime, the top-mounted (iso)butane/propane canister stove probably
comes closest to meeting the needs of most of today's three-season
backpackers, particularly those who trek in Europe and North America.

Ultralight models, often equipped with piezoelectric lighters, are made
by MSR, Primus, Gaz, Snow Peak, Brunton, Optimus, Coleman and others,
and are convenient, dependable, quiet, efficient, and though hot
burning, can also simmer well. In addition, analysis has shown that
even for gram-counting long-distance hikers, these stoves compare
favorably with other types of stoves from a weight-to-performance point
of view.

Nonetheless, these stoves are not perfect. My own biggest complaint is
that the fuel canisters themselves are not refillable by the user,
which means that it's often difficult carry just the amount of fuel
that you think you'll need for a given outing.

In addition, compatible canisters are sometimes difficult to find
outside the U.S. or when re-supplying on long hikes (canisters can't be
transported on commercial airliners). These stoves also typically
perform poorly in cold weather and can be difficult to use with
conventional windscreens (although the [19]KiteScreen offers a great
solution to this last problem).

Alcohol Stoves

Alcohol stoves are one of the most popular alternatives to canister
stoves, especially for long-distance hikers, perhaps because they solve
one key problem: fuel availability. Alcohol stoves can burn ethanol or
methanol (and combinations thereof), or in a pinch, even isopropyl
alcohol, which means that fuels at re-supply points are generally
fairly easy to find at liquor, hardware, automotive or variety stores.

Alcohol stoves also allow hikers to carry just the amount of fuel
needed for a given outing, are super-quiet in operation, are usually
very simple in design (no fuel jets to clog or other components to fail
in the field), and are usually extremely light weight. Many
green-spirited backpackers also like alcohol stoves because they use a
renewable fuel source, unlike the majority of stoves now in use that
burn fossil fuels (although alcohol stoves still emit carbon dioxide,
a greenhouse gas).

On the flip side, alcohol stoves present certain safety hazards,
including a flame that's nearly invisible in sunlight (which means that
it's sometimes difficult to detect when the stove is operating) and the
use of an open fuel tank that can spill flaming alcohol on you and your
surroundings if tipped over.

These stoves are typically also more wind-sensitive than other
types--and as a double whammy--use their fuel much more quickly than do
fuel-metered stoves under windy conditions, at least if not properly
protected. And while they excel at boiling water, alcohol stoves are
typically difficult to control for simmering.

All designs of which I'm aware must be also re-filled after every use.
This single-shot-of-fuel per use operation means that it's often tricky
to gage how much alcohol to add to your stove for any given cooking
operation. As a result, backcountry cooks usually either run out of
fuel before finishing, or end up with excess fuel that frequently burns
wastefully away until it's finally consumed (although some of the
accessories and techniques described below can reduce this waste).

Likewise, the energy content of alcohol is considerably less than
comparable petroleum-based fuels (typically about half), which means
that significantly more fuel must be carried. The good news here is
that alcohol fuels are safer to handle, can be transported in ordinary
plastic bottles, and can be extinguished with water in an emergency.

JIM'S STRATEGY

Despite their disadvantages, I still like alcohol stoves. Sometimes I
use one as a primary heater and sometimes as a backup or "fill-in" for
my canister stove. Carrying an alcohol stove, which weighs almost
nothing by itself, often allows me to avoid carrying a second weighty
canister if I'm concerned about not having quite enough fuel. I can
include just the right amount of alcohol to supplement the main
butane/propane supply for the trip.

For this type of use, a backup stove doesn't need to be a full-featured
replacement. All it really needs to do well is boil water in a
reasonable amount of time, which also allows it serve as a second
burner in the preparation of some meals.

I also now usually carry the Fire Bucket Stove System which can work as
a windscreen for either the Super Cat or canister stove (see the
[20]Fire Bucket article for details), or in a pinch, burn wood if I run
out of other types of fuel.
  __________________________________________________________________

Alcohol Stove Designs
  __________________________________________________________________

There are dozens of do-it-yourself alcohol stoves currently described
in various spots around the Internet. Rather than duplicate information
that's already available, I would instead refer you to the most
complete backpacking stove site that I've found thus far: the [21]Zen
Stove site.

NON-PRESSURIZED vs PRESSURIZED

For purposes of classification, however, I will note that alcohol stove
designs generally fall into one of two categories: non-pressurized and
pressurized.

Non-pressurized models work by simply housing an open flame that's
created by burning expanding alcohol gases. These gases exist anytime
that liquid alcohol is warm enough to evaporate, where the warmer the
liquid, the faster the rate of evaporation. Examples include Roy
Robinson's Cat Stove and the Robert Crowley Plumber Stove.

Pressurized models restrict the expansion of this gas in some manner to
create gas "jets" that are said to burn a little hotter than do
non-pressurized flames. Since I've done limited testing myself, I can't
say for sure that it really makes any difference, but in either case,
the Super Cat would be classified as a pressurized design. Also,
because of slightly higher flame velocities, pressurized models are
probably tend to be a bit less wind-sensitive.

While I'm at it, I'll also note that the term "pressurized" may also be
a bit overstated, since the amount of back-pressure created by
restricting the gas flow is very small--just enough, in fact, to force
the expanding gas out through a series of burner holes. It's nothing
like the pressure, for example, that's created by manually pumping an
MSR white gas fuel bottle.

SIMPLICITY OF DESIGN

Probably the most significant thing that sets the Super Cat apart from
other pressurized stoves such as Scott Henderson's Pepsi-G, the
Anti-Gravity Gear Tin Man, or the Brasslite stoves, is the simplicity
of design.

Most pressurized stoves require multiple components that must be taped,
epoxied, or welded together in order to create their pressure chambers.
The Super Cat's pressure chamber, on the other hand, is created simply
by placing a pot on top of the stove, thereby blocking the ability of
the expanding gas to escape through the top, forcing the flames out
through the side vents.

The Super Cat design is also simpler than most others because it
doesn't require the use of a separate pot stand. The stove itself
serves as both the burner element and the stand, since the pot is
placed directly over the top of the stove.

Because of its uncomplicated design, the Super Cat is also very easy to
build. So easy, in fact, that they're sometimes constructed on the
trail (often in less than five minutes) using materials procured at
re-supply stops.

Incidentally, I should note that this stove is named "Super" because it
burns hotter and faster than most other alcohol stoves whose
specifications I've seen. With some implementations of the Super Cat,
I've consistently (under ideal, no-wind conditions) brought two cups of
water from cool room temperature to a full rolling boil in under four
minutes, which is among the fastest times I've noted so far, though
there's really no way to guarantee the consistency of the conditions
among all those who conduct these tests.

It's also called "Super" since it's super-easy to make and, at a weight
of less than ¼ of an ounce, super-light weight. The "Cat" portion of
the name was derived from its construction using a single, 3 ounce
aluminum cat food can.

WHY THE SUPER CAT WORKS

Unfortunately, one can't punch a few holes in any old can and expect to
turn it into a working pressurized stove. For starters, the can's
volume needs to be just right for the alcohol vapors to pressurize in a
way that allows them to expand through the side vent holes after
lighting.

If the internal space is too large, the flame will simply be
extinguished when the pot is lowered into place. Alternatively, if it's
too small, the same thing will probably happen, but even if it manages
to pressurize, the stove's fuel capacity will likely be too low to
complete most cooking operations without refilling.

The diameter of the can is also important since the stove also serves
as the pot stand. If the diameter is too small, the stove could become
unstable when a pot is placed upon it. If the stove is too wide, the
flames will probably miss most of the pot's bottom surface and some of
the heat will be lost up the sides (though there are some interesting
exceptions to the conventional wisdom regarding stove and pot width
that are discussed below).

The material and thickness of the can's walls are also critical. In
order for the stove to work properly, some of its heat must be
transferred back into the open pool of alcohol to keep it boiling
("thermal feedback"). If the the stove is made from a metal that's
either too thick or that conducts heat poorly, the alcohol can stop
boiling, killing the flame.

Conversely, if the sidewalls are too thin, then the stove probably
won't support the weight of a pot filled with two to four cups of water
(which might weigh two pounds or more) and could collapse when heated
to operating temperature.

SO HERE'S THE MAGIC

It turns out that the 3 ounce aluminum can that's recommended for Super
Cat use is just about perfect for this task.

The volume is such that the alcohol vapors pressurize properly under
almost all altitude, temperature and other operating conditions. It's
also large enough that, depending on hole configuration, it will hold
up to 2 fluid ounces of fuel, which is usually more than enough for
most cooking chores. Likewise, the can's diameter easily supports most
commonly used pot sizes while maintaining a high degree of efficiency.

The aluminum walls are likewise thin enough to efficiently conduct heat
to the alcohol pool to keep it boiling, but are also thick enough to
safely support the weight of a full pot of water (at least of the size
range most likely to be used).

Over the years, I've experimented a variety of other cans types that
have been larger, smaller, and constructed from metals such as steel
and brass, and I have yet to find anything that works as well as the
3 ounce aluminum can.

the question of pot width

One interesting thing I've learned from my development experiences is
that the conventional wisdom about side-burner stoves and pot width is
not necessarily correct. Many hikers believe that alcohol stoves like
the Super Cat only work well with wide-bottom pots under the theory
that narrow pots allow too much of the stove's heat to flow up the
sides of the vessel, thereby significantly reducing efficiency. In
truth, it's not that simple.

Somewhat to my amazement, the fastest boil times I've ever observed
with the Super Cat have been with tall, narrow cook pots. More
specifically, I'm referring to those that are constructed from 24 or 25
ounce aluminum beer cans sold by Heineken, Fosters and others. These
cans, which are quite popular with ultralight backpackers, have bases
that are only about 3¼ inches wide, compared with a pot like the Snow
Peak Trek 1400 (my personal favorite) whose base is a bit over 5 inches
wide.

With these beer can pots, I consistently clock boils times for two cups
of cool, room temperature water at under 4 minutes with the Super Cat,
while the best I've seen with the much wider Snow Peak 1400 is about
4½ minutes under the same conditions.

                        [22][Beer_1492-450.jpg]

           Beer can cook pots with Super Cat stoves [23](+)
       The Fosters can on the left includes a silicone lip guard
                    from [24]Ultralight Outfitters

Much of the reason for the speedier beer can boil times is related, of
course, to the material from which these vessels are made. The very
thin aluminum walls of the cans conduct heat more efficiently than
thicker titanium walls of the Snow Peak pot, partly offsetting the
effects of their less-than-optimal shapes. And to be fair, in a
titanium-to-titanium comparison, the Snow Peak 600 mug, whose base is
about the same with as the beer can pots, requires 15% to 20% more time
to boil two cups of water than does the wider Snow Peak 1400, whose
walls are of about the same thickness.

                     [25][Snow-Pots_1495-450.jpg]

               Snow Peak 1400 (L) and Snow Peak 600 (R)
                     with Super Cat stoves [26](+)

But my point here is even when using fairly narrow pots, a significant
amount of energy transfer occurs when a stove's flame wraps around the
pot bottom and travels up the sides. Accordingly, I think you'll be
happy with the performance with the standard 3 ounce can when used with
just about any reasonably-sized cook pot.

Just to be sure, I've constructing stoves from narrower aluminum cans
like those used for Red Bull energy drinks. Those cans are about
2 inches in diameter versus 2.4 inches for aluminum pet food cans
(i.e., are about 83% as wide) and I have seen no significant difference
in boil times.

                      [27][Snow600_1499-450.jpg]

     Red Bull sized stove with Snow Peak 600 titanium mug [28](+)

.
  __________________________________________________________________

Disclaimers and Safety Notes
  __________________________________________________________________

Disclaimers

Before proceeding, I should point out that I am not a chemist, nor an
expert in stove technology. I am just a backpacker who struck upon
something interesting a few years ago that I felt was worth sharing
with my fellow hikers.

If you decide to build your own Super Cat, you must assume all risks. I
obviously can't guarantee your safety nor indemnify you against
accidents.

While there are a number of hazards associated with any backpacking
stove, an alcohol stove like the Super Cat probably has more than its
fair share, as I discuss in the next section. That said, as long as
you're careful, building alcohol stoves can be safe and a lot of fun,
perhaps even bordering on addictive for some.

I should also mention that when researching existing stoves prior to
developing the Super Cat, I found many clever and well-tested designs
available. Nonetheless, I had an idea for a type of stove that didn't
seem to be represented by any of the models I read about, though it's
certainly possible that someone has employed this design before. If so,
I apologize for the lack of attribution, but note that I did arrive
independently at all of my conclusions.

Safety Notes

Experienced outdoors people already understand that any backcountry
stove is potentially dangerous and should be handled with great care,
especially when operated in the vicinity of a tent or tarp. Alcohol
stoves like the Super Cat, however, are probably even more hazardous
than some other types for reasons that are discussed below.

CARBON MONOXIDE

All backcountry stoves can emit fair amounts of carbon monoxide (CO)
which can be deadly if concentrated in closed spaces. The best review
I've seen of hiking stoves and CO was prepared by Roger Caffin, an
expert who writes for [29]backpackinglight.com.

In Part 4 of his excellent series of research articles, Roger studied
the emissions of ten commercial alcohol stoves and concluded that:

     "...each of these alcohol stoves emits more CO than the best
canister stoves... all should be considered extremely dangerous in any
confined space."

To my knowledge, the Super Cat has never been tested for CO emissions,
a task that requires a unique laboratory setup. I have no reason to
believe, however, that the carbon monoxide generated by the Super Cat
would be much different from any of the stoves Roger tested.
Accordingly, you need to be especially careful when operating the Super
Cat indoors or inside a tent vestibule. Without plenty of fresh air
ventilation, carbon monoxide can kill you.

By the way, Roger's article [30]can be found here. To read the full
text, you'll need to be a BPL online subscriber (currently $24.99 per
year); otherwise, only the abstract will be available.

FIRE HAZARDS

Because fuel is burned in an open container, an alcohol stove like the
Super Cat can present a significant fire hazard. Unless the stove is
anchored to the ground or to a windscreen like the [31]Fire Bucket,
it's fairly easy for the stove to tip or blow over during operation.
And as you might imagine, spilling flaming alcohol on you and your gear
is a great way to ruin your day.

Likewise, when using the Super Cat, make sure that all combustibles are
positioned well away from the vicinity of the stove and that there's a
water source available if things go seriously wrong. Unlike grease or
petroleum fires, which are often spread when water is applied, alcohol
fires can usually be safely doused by drowning. Other less drastic
methods of stopping the Super Cat, such as depriving it of oxygen, are
discussed below.

Fires can sometimes also start with alcohol stoves because they operate
so quietly and burn with a flame that's nearly invisible in daylight.
You need to be especially careful to keep flammables (like synthetic
clothing) away from your stove if there's any chance it could be
running. Probably the best method to confirm operation if you're
uncertain is to place your hand near the stove or its windscreen to
feel for warmth.

Petroleum-Based Fuels
I would also counsel you not to use the Super Cat, or any alcohol
stove, with petroleum-based fuels such as automotive gasoline, kerosene
or white gas (Coleman fuel). With lower boiling points, these fuels are
more volatile than most alcohols and are dangerous to burn in open
containers. Because they're heavier than air, petroleum vapors can pool
in low-lying areas and explode when exposed to flame.

And in case you're tempted to try a higher energy content fuel (like
white gas) in the Super Cat, you should also know that I've already
tried many of them and they just plain don't work. They typically burn
with a low-temperature, yellowish, sooty flame that won't pressure in
this stove. These liquid fuels only work effectively when vaporized
under fairly high pressures and temperatures in stoves like the MSR
WhisperLite.

Silnylon Shelters
Finally, a special reminder to ultralighters who might be using
silnylon tarps or tents. Standard silnylon (i.e., the kind that's not
additionally treated with polyurethane) is not a fire-retardant fabric
and will burn fairly quickly if exposed to a flame.

FUEL TOXICITY

When compared with (iso)butane/propane canister stoves, liquid fuel
stoves can present the additional hazard of direct exposure to toxic
chemicals.

Denatured alcohol and yellow Heet are the most commonly burned fuels in
alcohol stoves, at least here in the United States. While a more
detailed discussion of these substances is included in the "[32]Super
Cat Fuels" section below, I'll just concentrate here on the potentially
harmful effects of one of the key ingredients in these fuels: Methanol.

Most denatured alcohols contain some amount of methanol, which a toxic
form of alcohol that's intentionally added to ethanol to render it
undrinkable. Methanol, which is used in a wide range of applications,
is also known as methyl alcohol, wood alcohol, carbinol, wood naphtha
and wood spirits.

Poisoning Hazards
The problem with methanol is that it can be toxic to humans when
ingested, inhaled, or absorbed through the skin. Historically, the most
common form of methanol poisoning has occurred orally. Consumed in
sufficient quantities, methanol can quickly lead to blindness and
death, primarily through the formation of formaldehyde in the liver
when the substance is metabolized inside the body.

This form of poisoning is perhaps best known in connection with
drinking illicit liquor (such as moonshine) that contains methanol,
sometimes added intentionally by unscrupulous distillers as a proof
extender. Most backpackers probably don't need to worry about
accidentally drinking methanol, however. Instead, exposure is more
likely to occur through inhalation or absorption through the skin.

After plenty of Internet research, it's still not clear to me at what
exposure levels methanol becomes dangerous through these two
mechanisms. Perhaps the studies have been done, but I've not found
them. There is universal agreement, however, that the risks are real.
As noted in the [33]Wikipedia methanol article:

"...Dangerous doses will build up if a person is regularly exposed to
vapors or handles liquid without skin protection."

The truth may be that nobody knows for sure at what point inhalation
and skin exposure becomes unsafe. I would simply offer the following
obvious advice to any backpacker who might elect to use methanol-based
fuels:
  * Avoid breathing alcohol vapors, whether burned or unburned.
  * Use a fuel bottle and filling system that minimizes the chance that
    you'll spill alcohol on your hands or clothing. If spillage does
    occur, promptly wash the affected surfaces.
  * Be especially careful not to allow alcohol fuel to leak into your
    water or food supply while you're on the trail. Most backpackers
    carry their fuel bottles in an external pack pocket in such a way
    so that if leakage were to happen, there would be little chance of
    contaminating food or water.

I will finally note that denatured alcohol products often contain other
toxic ingredients besides methanol. Methyl isobutyl ketone, acetone,
ethyl acetate, rubber solvent and other hydrocarbons are frequently
added to ethanol as denaturants, each of which is potentially
dangerous. Because their concentrations are usually small, however,
these other ingredients may not represent quite the same magnitude of
risk as does methanol.

SUPER CAT-SPECIFIC ISSUES

In addition to the general risks described above, the Super Cat
presents a few unique challenges that are discussed in the
"[34]Starting and Using the Stove" section below. Fortunately, all of
these Super Cat-specific risks can be easily minimized or eliminated by
using either the techniques or accessories that are likewise discussed
in that section.

LIVING HAPPILY IN SPITE OF THE ODDS

While I feel it's important to inform you about potential dangers, I
hope I haven't discouraged you from building and using a Super Cat.

The truth is that alcohol-based stoves are generally accepted as safe
by most knowledgeable backpackers, as long as the user exercises a fair
measure of common sense. I've been working with and testing these
stoves for many years without serious incident and accordingly, would
encourage you to give the Super Cat a try.
  __________________________________________________________________

Materials
  __________________________________________________________________

CAN SELECTION

At the core of the Super Cat project, of course, is an empty, clean
aluminum can. The 3 ounce size that's widely found at most grocery
stores and used for products such as cat food and potted meat sandwich
spreads is probably the best all-around choice for the reasons
discussed above. Examples of this type of can are shown below.

                      [35][3oz-cans_1502-450.jpg]

     Samples of products packaged in 3 ounce aluminum cans [36](+)

You'll find that even among similar can types, there will be some
variations in dimensions and weights. For example, the Hormel potted
meat can shown above is slightly taller than the Fancy Feast cat food
can, even though both contain 3 ounces of product. Most of these minor
variances will have little or no impact on stove performance, however.

Aluminum vs. Steel
One factor than will have a major impact on stove performance is the
metal from which the can is stamped. It turns out that not all 3 ounce
food cans that are made from aluminum. Some, such as those shown below,
are constructed from steel.

                       [37][Steel_1488-450.jpg]

                 Samples of 3 ounce steel cans [38](+)

While some of these steel cans are perhaps useable for Super Cat
stoves, there are some noteworthy issues:
 1. A 3 ounce steel can will probably weigh about ¾ ounce, or about
    three times as much as a comparable aluminum can.
 2. Although perhaps more durable than similar aluminum cans, steel
    cans are more difficult with which to to work. Most standard office
    hole punches won't be able to penetrate the sidewalls, so you'll
    either need to drill or use a sheet metal ("Whitney") punch such as
    that described in the "Tools" section below.
 3. The greater thermal inertia of steel stoves leads to longer cooling
    times, which extends the wait before they can be moved, packed or
    safely refilled after use.
 4. The thicker walls of steel cans don't conduct heat as efficiently
    as the thinner aluminum, which creates very different burn
    characteristics. For example, the thermal feedback mechanism
    (discussed above) that's necessary to start and keep the pool of
    alcohol boiling takes much longer to work. Likewise, steel stoves
    tends to run cooler, which contributes to longer boil times.

The performance results from tests conducted recently in a head-to-head
comparison of aluminum and steel stoves is shown below. Both stoves
were fueled with one fluid ounce of SLX denatured alcohol and used to
heat two cups of cool room temperature water in a Snow Peak Trek 1400
titanium cook pot to a rolling boil. The fuel in both stoves was also
ignited without external priming mechanisms (such as a priming pan).

                                   Aluminum stove

                              Steel stove

Prime time *
                        25 sec         2 min

Time to rolling boil (incl prime time)
                     4 min, 30 sec 8 min, 45 sec

Total stove burn time (incl prime time)
                     6 min, 45 sec 12 min, 30 sec

* Prime time = the amount of time from ignition until the surface of
the alcohol begins to boil, which also marks the point at which the
cook pot can be lowered onto the stove.

Bottom line: unless you have compelling reasons to use steel, I'd
suggest sticking with aluminum. But when shopping for a suitable can,
how does one distinguish between the two, since their appearances can
be very similar?

One way to tell the difference is to gently press on the sidewall of
the can with your thumb. Aluminum cans will flex fairly easily, while
steel cans have much less "give".

Another way is to take a scale with you to the grocery store. An
aluminum can that contains 3 ounces (net weight) of product will
probably weigh about 3.3 ounces in total. A similar steel can will
likely weigh over 4 ounces.

You can also, of course, select products that are known to be packaged
in aluminum. The list below includes a few brands distributed
regionally or nationally in the United States that I've verified (at
least as of the date of publication) are sold in aluminum cans.

           Product ( 3 ounce net weight size ) Manufacturer

Fancy Feast Gourmet cat foods

                       Nestlé Purina PetCare Co

Elegant Medleys cat foods
                Nestlé Purina PetCare Co

Newman's Own Organic cat foods
                  Newman's Own Organics

Some Harmony Farms cat foods *
               Harmony Farms Pet Products

Priority (Safeway store brand) cat foods
                      Safeway, Inc.

Companion (Giant Foods store brand) cat foods
                     Giant Food, LLC

Wegmans Gourmet (store brand) cat foods
                Wegmans Food Markets, Inc

Hormel Potted Meat Food Product
                    Hormel Foods, LLC

Libby's Potted Meat Food Product
                   ConAgra Foods, Inc.

* The smaller cans are aluminum, the slightly larger cans are made from
steel


PREPARING THE CAN

Once a suitable can is obtained, you'll want to first remove the label
and clean the interior. I'd also recommend that you remove the gummy
label adhesive using a solvent such as Goo Gone or Goof Off (by the
way, the lubricant WD-40 also does a great job of dissolving many
adhesives and is probably less toxic than most other solvents).

While some of the residue will eventually burn away if you choose not
to bother, the remainder will tend to stay somewhat sticky. If you
build an an optional stand (more below) that uses a "docking socket" to
hold the stove, the residue will often melt between the stove and the
holder, effectively gluing the two together. This remaining goop will
also sometimes transfer to other items in your pack, so it's best to
remove as much as possible.
  __________________________________________________________________

Tools
  __________________________________________________________________

The tools you'll need will depend on how you build your Super Cat, but
are mostly quite simple. For the basic Super Cat described below, all
you'll need are a flexible measuring tape and a felt tipped pen for
measuring and marking ventilation hole positions, and a standard office
punch for making those holes.

                       [39][Tools1_1509-500.jpg]

                    Simple Super Cat tools [40](+)

MAKING HOLES

There are many ways to create vent holes in the walls of the can, but
one of the easiest (and neatest) is with a handheld office paper punch
such as that shown above. Most standard punches are designed to make
holes that are about ¼ inch in diameter, which is about the largest
size you'll want to consider for the Super Cat. Available at most
office supply stores, these punches are also inexpensive and can easily
puncture the soft aluminum.

Not all of these punches are created equal, however. For example The
$0.97 punch I recently bought at Wal-Mart does not work very well, nor
do any of the dollar store versions I've tried, all of which failed
quickly. On the other hand, the [41]$1.29 model from Staples that's
shown in the photo above has performed very well.

Online craft stores are another source for quality paper punches in
sizes other than ¼ inch. I actually prefer vent holes that are slightly
smaller at 3/16 inch in diameter because the resultant stove flame
seems to be a little less wind-sensitive than with ¼ inch holes.
[42]Mister Art, for example, offers such punches in a range of sizes.

Another option is an inexpensive sheet metal punch that is much more
durable than a paper punch. Also known as "Whitney" punches, they can
be purchased for as little as $20 plus shipping from online sources
such as [43]Harbor Freight, that offers both [44]standard and
[45]deep-throated models. These punch kits include multiple die sets
that create holes in up to 16 or 20 gauge (depending on model) steel
sheet metal in a variety of sizes. I own the standard Harbor Freight
model and have found that it's ideal for building Super Cat stoves.

                        [Whitney-deep-600.gif]

                     Sheet metal ("Whitney") punch
        Shown is the deep-throated model with punches and dies

An electric drill is another obvious choice, though drilled holes tend
to be a little messier than punched holes. One exception are those that
are made with a variable width bit called a "Unibit" that allows for
creating fairly smooth edges. Made by Irwin and Klein, these bits are
available from a variety of online sources and sell for about $20.00. I
haven't tried a one myself, but some Super Cat builders have reported
excellent results with Unibits.

               [46][Drill-300.jpg]   [47][Unibit-300.jpg]
              Electric drill [48](+)    Unibit [49](+)

Finally, as described in the original Super Cat article, a sharp awl or
similar tool works well and allows for easily making holes of multiple
sizes. The downside is that the holes are not very pretty, but I still
like this method in part because of its simplicity, but also because it
can be easily improvised on the trail using a nail or pocket knife.

                      [50][Tools_3389-small.jpg]

  Alternative tools for punching holes and flattening collars [51](+)

If you employ the awl method, you'll probably also want a pair of
pliers to flatten the ragged "collars" created by the punctures on the
insides of the can. This process is described in more detail further
below.
  __________________________________________________________________

Super Cat Build Instructions
  __________________________________________________________________

Note:  There are many tools and techniques that can be used to build
Super Cat stoves. The build instructions below are designed to serve as
a starting point, but I'd encourage you to experiment with alternative
construction methods (some are discussed later on).
  __________________________________________________________________

HOLE SIZES and PATTERNS

The number, sizes and positions of the vent holes will determine how
well (or whether) your Super Cat works. They will control the fuel /
air mixture, the burn intensity and will also affect how much weight
the stove can support.

The good news is that a wide range of sizes and patterns will work to
some degree, so the question is selecting the combination that will
optimize the stove for a particular purpose.

Most of the time, backpackers want a stove that simply boils water
quickly and efficiently. By varying the hole sizes and patterns,
however, it's also possible to build a stove that burns with reduced
heat output, useful perhaps for extended simmering.

Within limits, increasing the size and number of holes in the sidewall
produces a stove that burns hotter, while smaller and fewer holes will
cause the stove to burn cooler. The prototype stoves below show a few
of the hole patterns with which I've experimented.

                      [52][Samples_1504-500.jpg]

      Stove samples show some of the hole patterns tested [53](+)

The first hole pattern discussed below will create a stove that burns
hot and fast. The stove also burns with a mostly blue flame (with only
occasional bursts of yellow) that flows smoothly from the vents without
the "pumping" action that is sometimes observed when the hole pattern
is not quite right.

The holes in this design are also made with a standard office paper
punch and are ¼ inch in diameter. As noted above, slightly smaller
holes (I like 3/16") will produce a flame that seems a little less
wind-sensitive, but ¼ inch hole punches are much more widely available
and so will be used for these instructions.

I'd suggest proceeding as follows:
 1. First, punch a single hole just under the top rim of the can so
    that its upper edge is about ¼" below the top edge of the can
 2. Next, using a felt tipped marker (Sharpies work well) and the first
    hole as a reference point, mark the centers of subsequent holes
    every ½ inch around the can's circumference, inline with the center
    of the first hole. This pattern should produce a total of 15 holes.
    Now punch the remaining holes to complete the top row.
 3. Punch a single hole in the bottom row that's equally spaced between
    two of the top row holes. The top of this new lower hole should be
    1/8 inch beneath the bottom edge of the hole above it. If
    positioned correctly the center of this new offset hole should also
    be about ½ inch (diagonal measurement) from the centers of each of
    the two holes above it.
 4. Finally, repeat Step 2 above, marking and punching the remaining
    bottom row holes spaced at ½ inch intervals.

Note that the dimensions shown in the diagram below assume the use of a
Fancy Feast gourmet cat food can and are delineated in English units
(inches). If you'd prefer to work in metric units (millimeters), you
can click on the link under the caption.

                           [54][English.gif]

                     Super Cat dimensions using a
                   Fancy Feast cat food can [55](+)

           [56]Click here to see dimensions in metric units

When you've finished, your new Super Cat should look the the sample
shown below.

                     [57][Can-empty_1506-300.jpg]

                    [58][Can-complete_1507-300.jpg]

Start with a clean, empty
3 ounce aluminum can [59](+)

Completed Super Cat [60](+)

Other Hole Creation Methods
If you make vent holes using an awl or most electric drill bits, you'll
notice a ragged-edged "collar" around each hole inside the can. These
collars can create turbulence in the flame jets, so it's best to
flatten them in order to get the smoothest possible gas flow. Use a
pair of pliers with curved pinchers (so that you don't also flatten the
can rim), to gently "smash" down these edges. The photos below
illustrate the process.

                    [61][BeforeCrunch_3393-300.jpg]

                      Vent holes made with an awl
                 before flattening the collars [62](+)

[63][Crunching_3403-300.jpg]

                      Flattening vent hole collars [64](+)

                     [65][Completed_3398-300.jpg]

                        Completed stove [66](+)

ALTERNATIVE HOLE PATTERNS

Reducing Heat Output for Simmering
Most popular alcohol stove designs work well for boiling water but are
notoriously difficult to throttle back for simmering. That's because
there are only two ways to reduce the heat output of any stove and most
alcohol heaters can use only the less efficient one.

The first way to reduce heat output, which offers the finer level of
control, involves limiting the amount of fuel that reaches the flame.
This technique is used, of course, in all canister and commercial
liquid fuel stoves, usually by employing a screw-type fuel valve that's
typically located either at the stove or on a remote fuel bottle. With
almost all alcohol stoves, however, the entire fuel supply is always
available for the duration of the burn, so there's no practical way to
limit its exposure to the flame.

The second method, which is the only choice available for most alcohol
stoves, involves reducing the amount of oxygen that reaches the flame.
This option, however, is usually much more difficult to control since
even a slight breeze can radically alter the airflow in and around the
stove.

One technique that's used by a fair number of alcohol stove users is to
add some type of air-restriction shield around either the vent holes of
the windscreen or around the stove itself. Some Super Cat users have,
for example, built "simmer rings" that can be temporarily attached to
the stove in such a way as to block one row of vent holes in order to
reduce heat output.

Creating airtight seals with these kinds of shields is difficult,
however, and so they often don't work very well. In addition, most
alcohol stove designs don't allow this type of airflow adjustment to be
made in real time while the stove is operating.

Before proceeding, I should mention that one of the best approaches to
simmering is not to simmer at all, but rather, to cook with retained
heat using either single or double pot cozies as described in August,
2008 article "[67]Three Mods for Your Mug". As many backpackers already
know, this method can save a lot of fuel by preserving the energy
that's already been added to a cook pot during the initial heating
process. For meals that need extended cook times, I'd strongly suggest
that you try this method first.

Building a "Simmer Cat"
Nonetheless, if you'd like to try simmering with a Super Cat, one way
is to create a second version of the stove that's optimized for this
purpose (let's call it a "Simmer Cat"). This dedicated simmer stove
will likely offer a more reliable way to cook at reduced heat than by
using an add-on that can leak air, and possibly fuel. In addition, a
dedicated Simmer Cat, at least the one described below, will have a
higher fuel capacity than a simmer ring-equipped main stove and thus
can be operated for longer periods of time.

You can build a Simmer Cat in many ways, but probably the easiest is to
construct the same stove that's described above, but without the bottom
row of ventilation holes. Based upon my tests, this single-row stove
will operate with a bit less than half the heat output as a comparable
model that uses a double row of holes.

                       [68][Simmer_1511-450.jpg]

         "Simmer Cat" with a single row of vent holes [69](+)

A performance comparison between similar Super Cat and Simmer Cat
models is shown below. Both stoves were fueled with one fluid ounce of
SLX denatured alcohol and used to heat two cups of cool room
temperature water in a Snow Peak Trek 1400 titanium cook pot to a
rolling boil. The fuel in both stoves was also ignited without external
priming mechanisms (such as a priming pan).

                                Super Cat   Simmer Cat

Prime time *
                   25 sec         25 sec

Time to rolling boil (incl prime time)
                4 min, 30 sec 9 min, 45 sec

Total stove burn time (incl prime time)
                6 min, 45 sec 15 min, 30 sec

* Prime time = the amount of time from ignition until the surface of
the alcohol begins to boil, which also marks the point at which the
cook pot can be lowered onto the stove.

The heat output of a Simmer Cat can be further adjusted by either
adding or deleting vent holes. Obviously, adding a hole is easy, while
deleting a hole usually requires starting over with a new stove, so
it's best to proceed slowly when experimenting. Likewise, hole sizes
can be reduced, though I've found that when using a single row of
vents, holes that are much smaller than 3/16" in diameter will probably
lead to stove that doesn't work at all.

By the way, if you really think you need real-time control over your
stove's heat output, a completely different approach to simmering is
offered below in the "Accessories" section. Called the "[70]Swivel
Cat", this stove requires a separate pot stand, but allows you to make
flame adjustments while the stove is operating.

Using a Simmer Cat on the Trail
When preparing a meal that requires a long cook time, most hikers will
probably first want to use a standard Super Cat to bring the meal to a
boil, then transfer the pot to the Simmer Cat for the remainder of the
required time.

Other Hole Configurations
While the hole configuration discussed above in connection with the
standard Super Cat should work fine under most conditions (including
high altitudes and low temperatures), you might like to experiment with
other sizes and patterns. If so, there are a few things that might be
helpful to know.

The first is that the fuel capacity is (obviously) defined by the
height of the bottom edge of the lower holes above the base of the can.
The higher these holes are positioned up the wall of the can, the
greater the potential fuel volume.

The tradeoff, however, is that if the flame jets that emanate from
these bottom holes are too far away from the top surface of the
alcohol, there may not be enough heat transferred to the alcohol pool
to keep it boiling and the stove could extinguish itself, especially in
chilly weather.

The range of distances, as measured from the bottom of the can to the
bottom edge of the lowest hole, that seem to work are 1/2" to 5/8"
(13mm to 16mm) for double row stoves and 7/8" (22 mm) for a single row
Simmer Cat stove. The approximate fuel capacities of each of those hole
heights is shown below.

                           Hole Height  Fuel Capacity (fl oz)
                           1/2" (13mm)           1.2
                           9/16" (14mm)          1.3
                           5/8" (16mm)           1.5
7/8" (22mm)
         Single row design     2.1


Another variable to keep in mind is that the larger the vent holes, the
more wind-sensitive the stove is likely to be. The largest hole size
I've found that works well is about ¼ inch in diameter. On the other
hand, vent holes that are too small may not work at all. A couple of
Super Cat builders have reported making stoves that use three rows of
very small holes, but I've never been able to get this arrangement to
work (perhaps I'm missing something).

It's also not mandatory that all vent holes be of the same size. Some
of my earliest Super Cat prototypes (that worked very well) were
constructed using a row of relatively large top holes, along with
slightly smaller holes in the bottom row.

Also remember not to create so many holes that the structural integrity
of the can is compromised. If you remove too much aluminum, the stove
might not be able to safely support a pot full of water. While the
stove may not actually collapse during operation, the walls might
slowly warp under heat stresses, shortening the Super Cat's life.

Irrespective of the hole configuration you select, you'll want a mostly
blue alcohol flame (a few short yellow bursts are OK) that flows
smoothly from the vent holes without the "pumping" action that usually
indicates that the fuel / air mixture is less than optimal.
  __________________________________________________________________

Super Cat Fuels
  __________________________________________________________________

Fuels that are appropriate for use in the Super Cat, as well as in most
other alcohol stoves, have been widely discussed on the Internet, so I
don't want to simply regurgitate what others have written. One of the
best reviews is available on the [71]Zen Stove website.

Likewise, the names, availabilities and even colors of these fuels can
vary from country to country. A good resource for international fuel
information [72]can be found here.

The discussion below is a brief summary of the fuels that are either
used, or might be considered for use, in alcohol stoves and reflects
many of my own experiences.

DENATURED ALCOHOL

Over the years, I've tried a wide variety of fuels in the Super Cat.
The best results have consistently come from [73]denatured alcohols,
which usually burn hot and clean with virtually no odor or soot
production. Denatured alcohols are widely available in the United
States, though there is no standard formula for these products among
its various manufacturers.

Ethanol
Denatured alcohol starts with [74]ethanol, also known as ethyl alcohol,
which is the same type of alcohol that's found in adult beverages and
which has received so much attention in recent years as an alternative
automotive fuel.

To render the ethanol undrinkable (and therefore not subject to liquor
taxes), a variety of "denaturants" or toxic chemicals are mixed into
the ethanol to convert it into denatured alcohol. In some countries,
dyes (often purple) are also added to help distinguish the product from
clear nontoxic beverages such as water.

Methanol
One additive that's commonly used is a variety of alcohol called
[75]methanol, also known as methyl alcohol, wood alcohol, wood spirit,
wood naphtha, pyroligneous spirit and carbinol.

Aside from its use as an ethanol denaturant, methanol is also widely
employed as an industrial and marine solvent, a paint remover, a car
racing fuel, and as a component in shellacs, photocopying compounds and
windshield-washing fluids.

The biggest problem for backpackers is that unlike ethanol, methanol is
poisonous when ingested, inhaled or absorbed through the skin (see the
"[76]Safety Notes" section above).

Methanol does, however, have combustion properties that are similar to
ethanol. A comparison of ethanol and methanol, along with the
petroleum-based Coleman fuel that's used in traditional backpacking
stoves (like the MSR WhisperLite) is shown below.

Ethanol Methanol

Coleman Fuel
(aka white gas,
naphtha)
** See Note Below

Energy content
(Megajoules per liter)
23.5 17.9 35.5

Energy content
(% of Coleman Fuel)
66% 50% 100%

Weight
(ounces per fl-oz)
0.82 0.83 0.73

Weight
(% of Coleman Fuel)
112% 114% 100%

Boiling point
173° F 148° F 117° F

Typical fuel weight *
(7-day backpacking trip)
17.8 oz 23.9 oz 10.5 oz

* The 50% / 50% SLX blend would require about 21 ounces of fuel for
this trip

** Special Note: Coleman fuel is included in the chart above for
reference purposes only since it's a fuel with which most backpackers
are familiar. As stated in the [77]Safety Notes section above, Coleman
fuel is most definitely not suitable for use in the Super Cat or any
other alcohol stove. In addition to being a very poor performer in
alcohol stoves, Coleman (or any other petroleum-based fuel) can also be
quite dangerous to burn in any stove not specifically designed for its
use.
                  ___________________________________

Many experienced alcohol stove users prefer denatured alcohol blends
that contain as much ethanol as possible, since it has a higher energy
content than methanol and is also less toxic.

On the other hand, the boiling point of methanol is lower than ethanol
which means that it will vaporize more easily in cold weather (but
still not as well as Coleman fuel). The brand of denatured alcohol I've
used the most is SLX from WM Barr, which contains roughly 50% ethanol
and 50% methanol. [SLX.jpg]

At that mix, its blended energy content is about 20.7 megajoules per
liter or 58% of the petroleum-based Coleman fuel. On a volume basis,
that blend is also about 113% of the weight of Coleman fuel, which
means that on a weight-for-weight basis, denatured alcohol contains
about half the energy content of Coleman fuel.

In other words, to boil the same quantity of water on a backpacking
trip, I'd need to carry twice the weight of denatured alcohol as I
would Coleman fuel.

With priming, a little waste, and lots of morning coffee, I typically
use about 1½ ounces (by weight) of petroleum-based fuels a day, so a
7-day trip generally would require a total of about 10½ ounces. If I
carried SLX instead, I'd need roughly 21 ounces of denatured alcohol
for the same trip. Of course, there are many other variables, like the
weight differences of the associated stoves and accessories that must
figure into a final weight-efficiency calculation.

Determining the Ingredients
Processed foods sold in the United States are required to bear labels
that specify their ingredients. There is, however, no such requirement
for denatured alcohol products, so instead, one must turn to a document
that the federal government requires be filed and regularly updated for
every chemical distributed in this country that contains hazardous
components. Among the information required to be reported are the
ingredients and their approximate percentage constituencies. I should
also note that most other industrialized countries, especially Canada
those in the European Union, have similar reporting laws.

The MSDS
Called a [78]Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), one of these documents
is available for every denatured alcohol product sold in the United
States. They can sometimes be found in online MSDS databases, and
sometimes on manufacturers' or retailers' websites. Probably the
easiest way to locate an MSDS for a particular product is to simply
perform an Internet query using "MSDS" and the product name as your
search terms.

For your convenience, I've also collected the MSDS's for a few popular
brands of denatured alcohol as well as for the two kinds of Heet that
are discussed below. You can [79]find them here.

No Water, Please
When reviewing these documents, you may note that some brands of
denatured alcohol contain water as an ingredient. It's been my
experience--and apparently that of others as well--that even a little
water can have a significantly negative impact on stove performance.

One example is Parks brand denatured alcohol. According to its 2002
MSDS, it contained 87% to 92% ethanol but also 5% to 10% water, a fact
that might account for some of the negative backpacker comments that
I've read about this product when used as a stove fuel. In fairness,
I should also point out that in an updated MSDS released in December,
2006, water is longer listed as an ingredient, so perhaps their formula
has changed.

HEET FUEL-LINE ANTIFREEZE

After denatured alcohol, the second most popular fuel for alcohol
stoves is probably a product called Heet. Manufactured by Chicago-based
[80]Gold Eagle Company, Heet is an automotive and small engine fuel
additive that is marketed as a fuel-line antifreeze and water remover.
I suspect that its popularity among hikers is largely related to its
wide availability, especially in the northern U.S.

Sold in 12 fluid ounce plastic bottles at automotive stores, gas
stations, and variety stores such as Wal-Mart, Heet is available in two
varieties.

Regular Heet ("Yellow Heet")
The first variety is named just "Heet" and is packaged in a yellow
bottle (and hence often called "Yellow Heet"). It consists, according
to its MSDS, of 99% methanol, which was discussed above. If you're
going to burn Heet in your Super Cat, this is the kind you want.
It burns with a clean, blue flame similar to that seen with most
denatured alcohols. A 12 fluid ounce bottle currently costs $1.50 to
$2.50.

Compared with a denatured alcohol product like SLX (which contains
about 50% each of ethanol and methanol), Yellow Heet has a slightly
lower energy content, but also a slightly lower boiling point, so it
should ignite a bit more easily in cold weather.

Because it's almost pure methanol, however, Yellow Heet is also more
toxic than most denatured alcohol fuels. The toxicity of methanol is
discussed at some length above in the "[81]Safety Notes" section.

                        [82][Heet_1513-450.jpg]

                   Methanol-based Heet (yellow) and
               isopropanol-based Iso-Heet (red) [83](+)

Iso-Heet ("Red Heet")
The second variety is called Iso-Heet, which is packaged in a red
bottle (and hence often referred to as "Red Heet"), and consists,
according to its MSDS, of 99% [84]Isopropanol.

Also known as isopropyl alcohol, rubbing alcohol, 2-propanol or IPA,
this is a third type of alcohol (after ethanol and methanol), that
hikers sometimes burn in alcohol stoves. A 12 fluid ounce bottle
usually costs $2.00 to $3.00.

Although it's an alcohol, isopropanol has about the same energy density
as petroleum-based fuels like white gas at 30.4 megajoules per liter,
yet weighs about the same as ethanol and methanol. Unfortunately, it
also burns much like petroleum-based fuels in alcohol stoves, which is
to say, not very well.

When ignited, Red Heet burns with a low temperature, yellow flame that
will quickly deposit a coating of black soot on cook pots. If allowed
to burn long enough, however, it will usually produce enough heat to
bring a couple of cups of water to a boil. Most experienced users will
chose Red Heet only if there's no better alcohol fuel available.

                   [85][Red-Heet-Flame_1574-450.jpg]

Red Iso-Heet burns with a yellow, sooty, low-temperature flame [86](+)

OTHER FUELS

Rubbing Alcohol [Ethyl-Rubbing.jpg]
The term "[87]rubbing alcohol" is somewhat ambiguous since it can be
applied to products that are made either with ethanol or with
isopropanol, both of which are discussed above.

The ethyl alcohol version is composed of mostly ethanol that's been
denatured (made undrinkable) by adding a combination of acetone and
methyl isobutyl ketone. Usually sold in concentrations of 70% by
volume, the remaining 30% is primarily water. Because of its high water
content, this version does not work very well in alcohol stoves. With
the Super Cat, in particular, its unlikely that the stove will
pressurize with this fuel.

The isopropanol (or isopropyl) version of rubbing alcohol is the same
compound chemically as the Red Heet discussed above, except just with
more water. Usually sold in 70% and 91% (or sometimes even 99%)
concentrations by volume, neither is a very good stove fuel. The 70%
concentration, in fact, hardly burns at all, while the 90%+
concentrations will generally work, but with the sooty flame of Red
Heet.

Distilled (Drinkable) Spirits [Everclear.jpg]
Distilled (drinkable) spirits are normally produced through a process
that can produce a maximum ethanol concentration of 95.6% by weight.
Commercial products containing this high level of ethanol are usually
sold as "grain alcohol" are available in most, but not all,
jurisdictions within the United States.*

One of the most popular brands of grain alcohol is Everclear, which is
sold in both 151-proof and 190-proof varieties ("proof" = 2 times the
alcohol concentration by volume). A 750 milliliter bottle of 190-proof
Everclear typically sells for $18 to $25 (usually plus sales tax),
which makes it an expensive stove fuel.

One 750ml bottle would fuel approximately 25 normal burns in an alcohol
stove. Or in other words, if you include sales tax, it would cost about
$1.00 every time you boiled two cups of water (I can think of better
uses for Everclear).

Because Everclear is not available in my area, I've not tried it
myself, but others have said that in spite of its ~5% water component,
it burns well in most alcohol stoves.

During my early Super Cat testing, I did try Bacardi 151-proof rum as a
fuel (75.5% ethanol by volume). The Bacardi burned cleanly, but
probably because it still contains almost 25% water, the internal vapor
pressure was not quite sufficient to allow the stove to pressurize
(i.e., the flames could not switch to the outside of the stove).
Bacardi 151 could therefore be used as a fuel for the Super Cat, but
only in non-pressurized mode using a separate pot stand.
                  ___________________________________

* According to the Wikipedia "...It is illegal to sell the 190-proof
variety [of grain alcohol] in some states of the United States, viz.:
California, Florida, Hawaii, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota,
Nevada, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Washington. In some
of these states, the 151-proof variety may be sold. In Canada, it is
sold in Alberta but not in Saskatchewan, Manitoba and most other
provinces.

Esbit Tablets
During my 2004 Super Cat testing efforts, I was curious to see if the
stove would work when burning Esbit solid fuel tablets that are popular
with many long-distance backpackers. Though the heat output from the
tablets seemed to be about the same as with denatured alcohol, the
combustion chamber would not pressurize at all. The tablets also left a
gummy reside inside the stove and on the underside of the pot that
caused the two to be temporarily "glued" together. Science project net
result: doesn't work.

                       [88][Fuels_3400-475.jpg]

       Some of the fuels tested during early development [89](+)

Laboratory (Reagent) Grade Ethanol
As noted above, high-concentration ethanol is normally produced through
a fermentation and distillation process that is capable of producing a
[90]maximum alcohol concentration of 95.6% by weight, where the
remaining 4.4% is mostly water. [Lab-grade.jpg]

To produce the kind of waterless ethanol that's required in many
automotive and laboratory applications, the remaining H[2]0 must be
removed through a chemical drying process that often involves the
compound benzene.

The resultant "laboratory" or "reagent" grade product is a kind of
denatured ethanol that contains virtually no water, but which is still
not drinkable, either because there are trace amounts of toxic benzene
remaining, or because small amounts of denaturants such as methyl
isobutyl ketone or methanol have been intentionally added.

Nonetheless, this 95%+ pure, waterless ethanol is probably the best
alcohol stove fuel available. Though it doesn't vaporize in cold
weather quite as well as pure methanol, its high energy content (31%
greater than methanol) and low toxicity (relatively speaking) make it
very appealing. And at $6.00 to $7.00 per quart, the cost is also
roughly comparable to many denatured alcohol products.

The bad news is that in the United States, distribution of laboratory
grade ethanol is restricted to businesses, governments and educational
institutions. However, if you're in a position to obtain some from your
school or workplace, you might want to give it a try in your Super Cat.

Distilling Your Own Ethanol
The home production of ethanol in the United States is generally
banned. One exception allows for the distillation of ethanol for use
solely a fuel, though the current law does not specify exactly what the
term "fuel" means.

The U.S. Department of the Treasury's [91]Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and
Trade Bureau (TTB), is charged with licensing private ethanol "plants",
a process that starts by filing a [92]5-page form with the agency. Once
the no-fee document has been received, the TTB must make a
determination about whether the proposed use falls within the agency's
interpretation of the term "fuel". While it might seem that use in an
alcohol stove would qualify, my guess is that it probably does not. The
following statement appears on the current TTB website:

"...TTB has received requests to use fuel alcohol in the manufacture of
products such as charcoal lighter fluid, firelighter gel, and chafing
dish "fuel." We must turn these requests down because these products
are not within the intent of the law restricting the alcohol to "fuel
use."

While it's unlikely that most backpackers would bother attempting to
make their own alcohol fuel, there are almost certainly a hardcore few
that have tried it (legally or not). There are a great many Internet
resources available that offer both the instruction and the equipment
necessary to distill ethanol at home.

Ethanol 85% ("E85")
Containing approximately 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline (or other
hydrocarbons) by volume, E85 is sold as an automotive fuel in the
United States and other countries primarily for use in "Flexible-Fuel"
vehicles that have been modified to run on this high-octane,
alternative to regular gasoline. [E85_logo.jpg]

According to the [93]Wikipedia, there are currently "...1500 public E85
fueling stations available in the United States (out of 176,000
worldwide), at prices over 30% less than regular gasoline (when
discounting the reduced fuel economy of E85), primarily in the
corn-growing Midwest..."

I've not personally tried E85 in a Super Cat stove, but I've heard from
those who have. They've reported that although the fuel contains only
about 15% gasoline, it burns with substantially the same properties as
regular gasoline. The resultant low-temperature, sooty flame apparently
burns mostly yellow and fails to pressurize in the stove, making E85
largely unsuitable for use in a Super Cat. If you have any different
experiences with E85, I'd very much like to hear from you.

Petroleum-Based Fuels
Petroleum-based fuels such as automotive gasoline, kerosene or white
gas (Coleman fuel) are discussed about in the "[94]Safety Notes"
section above. Bottom line: they're more dangerous than alcohols fuels
and they also just plain don't work.

CARRYING AND DISPENSING YOUR FUEL

Suitable Fuel Bottles
A question that comes up regularly on Internet backpacking forums
relates to the kinds of containers that can be safely used to transport
alcohol fuels on the trail.

The good news is that almost any plastic or metal container will work
just fine. Soda or water bottles made from common high-density
polyethylene (HDPE) or PET (polyethylene terephthalate) are chemically
stable enough that they won't react with most alcohol fuels.

Some lightweight backpackers prefer collapsible plastic containers such
as those made by [95]Platypus or [96]Evernew, but I personally find
it's more difficult to manage a "floppy", soft-sided container than one
with rigid sidewalls.

Soda bottles (i.e., those used to package carbonated beverages) are a
popular choice because they're lightweight, come in a large variety of
capacities and are free. Because they're designed to contain beverages
that are under a fair bit of internal pressure, they're also quite
strong. One source, in fact, suggests that soda bottle manufacturers
typically design their products to withstand internal pressures of at
least 10 atmospheres (~150 psi) before bursting, even though the
beverages themselves are normally packaged at only 2 atmospheres.

Most soda bottles made in the U.S. also have standard-size screw tops
that are compatible with those used on the Platypus and Evernew
soft-sided containers. Accordingly, they will accept accessories such
as the [97]FireLite Red Spout caps from backpackinglight.com, or the
[98]push-pull caps from Platypus.

It's interesting to note that bottles used to package many
non-carbonated water products have a similar thread design (that's
mostly standard among these types of bottles), but they're just
different enough from soda bottles that the caps usually can't be
interchanged.

                        [99][Soda_1515-450.jpg]

   Common PET soda bottles are great for transporting alcohol fuels
      The middle bottle is equipped with a Platypus push-pull cap
and the bottle on the right with a BPL FireLite Red Spout cap [100](+)

Whatever container you choose, you'll want to make sure that the cap is
fully leak-proof. Fuel bottles can be subjected to several kinds of
stresses on the trail, including those associated with internal
pressures that can build significantly with altitude gains or
temperature increases.

I've found that the push-pull or twist caps used on some disposal water
bottles don't hold up very well (though others fare better). Likewise,
certain flip-top caps, such as those used on most brands of hand
sanitizers, will pop open fairly easily under only moderate pressure.

                       [101][Cap1_1517-300.jpg]

                       [102][Cap2_1518-300.jpg]

Some disposable water bottle
caps tend to leak easily [103](+)

Flip-top caps can sometimes
pop open under pressure [104](+)

On the other hand, my experience has been that folding-spigot caps of
the type supplied with some sizes of the familiar [105]Campsuds or on
certain [106]plastic bottles sold by REI, are quite durable and
leak-resistant as are the tilt-top caps I've tried. Likewise, the
Platypus push-pull and BPL FireLite red spout caps mentioned above are
also recommended.

                       [107][Cap3_1520-300.jpg]

                       [108][Cap4_1522-300.jpg]

This tilt-type cap is quite
leak and pop-open resistant [109](+)

A folding spigot is even more
leak and pop-open resistant [110](+)

If you're taking a trip of more than a few days, you might want to
consider carrying two fuel bottles. The larger, which would contain the
majority of your alcohol, could have a standard, non-dispensing,
leak-proof cap, while a second smaller (probably 4 to 8 ounces)
"working" bottle could be used for actually fueling your stove. The
smaller bottle, perhaps equipped with a spigot-type dispensing cap,
will be much easier to handle around camp and can be refilled from the
larger bottle as necessary.

By the way, there's a good summary of fuel bottle choices on the
[111]Zen Stoves website. And oh yes, it's also a good idea to mark your
fuel bottle, especially if using a water or soda type, so that it
indicates that the clear contents are flammable, poisonous, and are not
to be confused with drinking water. Though you'll know the difference,
someone else who might have need to access your pack (perhaps in an
emergency) may not.

Measuring and Dispensing Fuel
There are several popular methods for measuring and dispensing fuel to
your stove. One obvious way is to carry a lightweight kitchen measuring
spoon that can be filled to an appropriate level from your fuel bottle.
If you use a bottle with a wide enough mouth, you might even be able to
dip the spoon into the bottle to scoop the fuel, rather than having to
pour the fuel onto the spoon.

A one-tablespoon size measurer works well because 2 tablespoons = 1
fluid ounce, which is a normal fuel "load" for the Super Cat stove. If
you need to measure quantities in other than ½ ounce increments, it's
fairly easy to estimate the differences with this size spoon.

                      [112][Measure_1530-450.jpg]

                One-tablespoon fuel measurer along with
    8 fl-oz "working" fuel bottle with folding spigot cap [113](+)
                 Weights: spoon = ¼ oz, bottle = 1 oz

If you like this idea, I'd suggest selecting a measuring spoon with a
handle long enough to minimize the chance that you'll end up with
alcohol on your hands, since as noted in the "Safety Notes" section,
most alcohol fuels contain methanol, which can be toxic when absorbed
through the skin.

Another measurement option is to mark the Super Cat with lines
scratched into the inside walls using a nail or awl at ½ fluid ounce
fill increments. You can establish those increments using a
one-tablespoon measuring spoon and water, marking the level each time
you add a tablespoon (½ fluid ounce) of liquid.

A third option is to carry a bottle that includes a built-in measuring
chamber. The bottles sold by [114]Brasslite are inexpensive, use
spigot-type dispensing caps, and are available in either 8 or 16 ounce
sizes. Though I've not tried them myself, I understand they work well.

Similar dispensing-reservoir bottles are also used to package a variety
of automotive fuel additives and are widely available in auto parts
stores. Likewise, most of the [115]Coolbrew coffee products are sold in
similar bottles. I would still prefer the Brasslite models, however,
because the discharge port is equipped with a cap that doesn't need to
be removed when fuel is dispensed.
  __________________________________________________________________

Starting and Using the Stove
  __________________________________________________________________

SAFETY FIRST

As mentioned above in the "[116]Safety Notes" section, all alcohol
stoves emit some level of carbon monoxide, so you'll want to work in a
well-ventilated room if you decide to test your Super Cat indoors. I've
done a great deal of stove testing in my basement without problems, but
I make sure to keep the door and windows open and as much air moving
inside as possible.

You'll also want to work in an area that's clear of anything that could
catch fire if something goes wrong. I always keep my work area clear of
combustibles and generally operate the stove inside of a 12" wide
circular metal pan of the type used for automotive oil changing.
If I somehow manage to tip the stove over during operation, the pan
will confine the flames.

In addition, I also always have a "snuffer cup" (described below) handy
to extinguish the stove through suffocation if necessary, as well as a
source of water nearby should things really start to get out of hand.
Note that unlike like petroleum-based fires that often spread when
water is applied, alcohol-based flames can usually be quickly
extinguished by drowning.

FUELING and LIGHTING

The exact manner in which you fuel and light your Super Cat will depend
in part upon the accessories (if any) that you employ. For example, if
using a windscreen like the [117]Fire Bucket, you'll need an ignition
technique that's appropriate for this type of wind barrier. Likewise,
if using an optional stand that has a built-in primer pan, ignition
will be a bit different than that discussed below.

For purposes of simplification, I'll describe fueling and lighting a
"naked" Super Cat stove that's set up in a wind-free environment.
Specific recommendations about alternative techniques that might be
appropriate when using certain Super Cat accessories are included in
the same sections where the construction and use of those options is
discussed.

Step 1:  First, position the stove on a stable surface that won't be
damaged by high temperatures. The bottom of the stove will get very hot
during operation, so don't test it, for example, directly on your
kitchen counter. Also be certain that the stove is sheltered from
winds. The Super Cat is extremely lightweight and you don't want it to
blow over while burning, possibly spilling flaming alcohol on you or
your equipment.

Step 2:  Next, measure one fluid ounce of alcohol fuel and pour it into
the bottom of the stove. Never, of course, fill a stove that is still
hot from a previous operation - it should be cool to the touch when
adding fuel. Be sure to clean up any spills on your hands or other
surfaces before proceeding. Also, place any flammable items (like
matches or your fuel bottle) well away from the stove.

Step 3:  Now ignite the fuel, probably most easily accomplished by
extending a lighted match through one of the lower vent holes, or
alternatively, into the stove from the top. Once the fuel has ignited,
flames will emerge through the top, though they may be difficult to see
in bright daylight. Placing your hand near the top of the stove will
allow you to feel the warmth in order to confirm ignition.

                     [118][Lighted1_3406-450.jpg]

                         Fuel ignited [119](+)

Step 4:  Wait 20 to 30 seconds to allow the flames to warm the both the
stove and liquid alcohol, during which time you'll note an increase in
heat output. This warm-up process is often referred to as "priming" and
is usually complete when you can see the surface of the alcohol pool
bubbling (boiling).
You can now place your pot directly on top of the stove, making sure
that it both covers completely, and is centered over, the top stove
opening. With the pot in place, the combustion chamber should now
pressurize and the flames should shift from emanating from the top of
the stove to emerging from the side vent holes.

                     [120][Lighted2_3427-450.jpg]

                  The Super Cat in operation [121](+)

Note that if the flames are extinguished when you place your pot on the
stove, then your Super Cat is probably starved for oxygen (i.e., it's
running too "fuel rich"). To fix the problem, either add a few more
vent holes or enlarge the existing ones slightly. Proceed slowly with
this process, however. Too much oxygen will cause the flame to become
"fuel lean" and turn yellow, significantly reducing the efficiency of
the stove.

Now cook or boil for the desired time. You'll find that one fluid ounce
of fuel will probably last for 7 or 8 minutes, which is usually plenty
of time to bring two cups of water to a boil. Air and water
temperatures, wind conditions, elevation, and other factors will affect
your boil times, so you can adjust your fuel "load" as appropriate.

To maximize efficiency, it's best to use a tight-fitting lid on your
pot and to surround the stove and pot with a windscreen if there's even
the slightest breeze (more on windscreens below).

OPERATIONAL PRECAUTIONS

Be especially careful if you need to remove the pot from the Super Cat
while the stove is in operation. Some of the things that can happen:
 1. Lifting the pot quickly and vertically off the stove can create a
    momentary vacuum inside the combustion chamber. The flames on the
    sides of the stove will disappear, but an instant later, will
    likely re-appear with a "whoosh" back inside of the stove.
    What's happening is that the expanding alcohol gases go unburned
    for a moment when the outside flames are extinguished, but then
    ignite again inside. I don't think this phenomenon is particularly
    dangerous, though it can be a bit startling the first time it
    happens. It's not nearly as significant, however, as the flare-ups
    that can sometimes occur with white gas stoves when they ignite.
    The best way to prevent this from happening is to lift the pot
    slowly and move it sideways off the burner. This way, the
    transition from outside flames to inside flames can occur smoothly,
    without a flame-out/re-ignition cycle. Should the flame extinguish,
    but not re-ignite on its own, you'll need to manually re-light it.
 2. Sometimes during operation, a little alcohol might collect on the
    underside of your pot. When you remove the pot from the stove, this
    alcohol can continue to burn for a few moments, making it appear as
    though the bottom of your pot is on fire. This small flame is easy
    to extinguish, however, by either blowing it out or by setting the
    pot on the ground to smother it.
 3. If the bottom of your pot or the top rim of the stove becomes gummy
    with cooking residues, the stove could (because it's so
    lightweight) actually stick to the pot bottom. When you then lift
    the pot, the stove could lift along with it. A moment later, it
    could also "un-stick" and fall, spilling flaming alcohol
    everywhere. To avoid this problem, always keep the pot bottom and
    top stove rim free of sticky substances.

STOPPING THE STOVE

Most of the time, you'll probably just allow the Super Cat to burn
itself out after a cooking operation. If you want to deliberately stop
the stove before the fuel is spent, however, there are at least of
couple of methods.

Before proceeding, I should emphasize that it's almost always a bad
idea to attempt to blow out the flame in an operating Super Cat for at
least two reasons: (1) It probably won't work, since you'll just be
adding oxygen to make the flame burn hotter (the "blacksmith forge"
effect); and (2) if you blow hard enough, you might accidentally cause
flaming alcohol to splash outside the stove through a ventilation port,
perhaps starting a fire nearby.

Instead, a Super Cat can be reliably stopped as follows:

1.   In an emergency, you can douse the stove with water. As noted
above, the flames can be extinguished in this way without concern about
spreading them (as with a grease fire).

2.   A more graceful technique is to simply deprive the flame of
oxygen. One way to suffocate the burn is to use your empty cook pot as
a "snuffer" by inverting it over the stove. The less air that's trapped
under the pot, the more quickly the flames will extinguish. I normally
use a Snow Peak Trek 1400 titanium cook set (shown in the photos above)
whose top is also a 2-cup fry pan. When this fry pan is used as a
snuffer, the flame is usually extinguished within a second or two.
Because an empty cook pot may not always be available, however, a more
dependable method is to construct a dedicated "snuffer cup" from any
lightweight aluminum can that's slightly larger than the stove. See the
"[122]Accessories" section below for more information about building
and using a snuffer cup.

                  [123][Stove-w-Snuffer_1523-450.jpg]

             Super Cat stove with a "snuffer cup" [124](+)
      See "[125]Accessories" section below for build instructions

RECOVERING UNBURNED FUEL

If there's unburned fuel remaining in the stove after a "snuff-out",
you'll have to decide whether or not to try to recover it. If the
amount is small or if it contains debris or other contaminants that
you'd rather not empty into your clean fuel supply, you might elect not
to bother. In this case, any alcohol left inside the stove will quickly
evaporate.

However, if the amount is significant, you'll probably want to salvage
the leftovers. Because of the side vent holes, however, a Super Cat's
unburned fuel usually can't just be poured back into the fuel bottle
without spillage.

My preferred removal technique is to suction the remaining fuel using a
plastic eye dropper such as that made by Nalgene and [126]sold by REI
for $0.30. I've used this dropper for some time (which is so light that
it doesn't register on my scale) and it works very well.

                      [127][Eye-dropper-450.jpg]

                     A plastic Nalgene eye dropper
              can quickly recover unburned fuel [128](+)

Another option, if you carry a snuffer cup, is to quickly dump the
stove into the snuffer cup so that the fuel can't leak through the side
vent holes. A small notch that's either bent or cut into the inside rim
edge of the snuffer cup will allow the fuel to be easily pored back
into your alcohol bottle (more below on this idea in the
"[129]Accessories" section).

EXTENDING THE BURN TIME

The fuel reservoir capacity of the standard Super Cat described above
is around 1½ fluid ounces, which if full, should provide a burn time of
up to 12 minutes or so (depending on conditions). To increase the
effective burn time, one choice is to use two stoves, moving the pot
back and forth between them.

As stove #1 shows signs of burning out, stove #2 can be lighted and the
pot transferred a few moments later. Stove #1 can be allowed to cool,
then re-filled and re-lighted if desired. The total burn time in this
case would be limited only by the available fuel supply. By the way,
I refer to this technique as the "Super Cat shuttle" and while it works
well in calm conditions, it also requires using two separate
windscreens when it's windy.

Another obvious way is to increase the volume of the stoves, but there
may be problems with getting the stove to pressurize as discussed
above. One Super Cat builder, Jason Klass, has developed a higher
capacity version of the Super Cat for use mostly in cold weather that
he calls the "Snow Cat". You can [130]read more about it here.

HIGH ALTITUDES and LOW TEMPERATURES

The Super Cat has seen a lot of use in both high altitude and low
temperature environments over the past few years. I regularly receive
email reports from users that have tested the stoves under some fairly
extreme conditions and they largely confirm my own experiences, which
is to say that the Super Cat generally works just fine.

Increased altitude lowers water boiling temperatures, of course, but
seems to have little effect on the performance of the Super Cat. In
fact, because of the reduced air pressure, alcohol fuel often lights
more easily at higher elevations that it does at sea level.

Sub-freezing temperatures can make it a bit more difficult to light
most alcohol fuels, however, so it's often useful to maintain a small
"working" bottle of fuel in a coat pocket to keep it warm. Pre-warming
the stove by holding it in your hands before fueling can also help.
Likewise, using a high-methanol content fuel, which has a lower
vaporization temperature than does ethanol, is another way to improve
cold-weather performance, but you'll want to be especially careful with
these fuels since higher methanol content also means higher toxicity.

The use of either a Fire Bucket windscreen, or of an [131]optional
stand such as those discussed below, can further improve winter
operation. If the Super Cat is in direct contact with very cold ground,
conductive heat losses can sap much of the stove's energy, perhaps even
causing the alcohol to stop boiling, which will probably kill the
flame. Insulating the stove from the ground in some manner will usually
solve this problem.

Both the Fire Bucket and the optional stands do so by creating an
insulating airspace under the stove, but in really low temperatures,
you might also want to add a bit of home fiberglass insulation to these
air spaces.

On the other hand, if you're backpacking in these kinds of
temperatures, you'll may also need to regularly melt snow for drinking
water, in which case an alcohol stove is probably not the best choice.
Instead, you're likely better off using a stove that's optimized for
winter use, such as a pressurized white gasoline model, or perhaps a
liquid-feed butane/propane burner like the Coleman Powermax Xtreme.

LIGHTERS and MATCHES

There are, of course, many ways to ignite any stove and most
experienced backpackers will usually have already settled upon a
personal favorite. Nonetheless, I thought it might be useful to weigh
in with a few Super Cat-specific comments. I'll also note that there's
a good bit of useful information about fire starters available at the
[132]Backpack Gear Test website.

Lighters
One of the more popular methods of lighting some kinds of backcountry
stoves is with butane lighters such as those made by Bic, Ronson,
Tokai, Calico and others. Aside from being inexpensive, these lighters
are also lightweight and durable, but there are at least a couple of
issues, especially when used with an alcohol stove like the Super Cat.

The first, of course, is that these lighters are designed primarily for
use with tobacco products, so your hand ends up very close to the
flame. That's perhaps OK for a cigarette, but not so good for starting
a stove where accumulated flammable vapors can sometimes cause brief
flare-ups during ignition. This design can also present a burn hazard
when the lighter needs to be held horizontally, rather than vertically,
in order to start a stove.

A second problem is that most of these lighters don't work very well,
or perhaps at all, in cold weather. Most inexpensive lighters are
fueled with regular butane (also known as n-butane), which has a
boiling point of 31°F (-0.5°C). As soon as the air temperature drops
much below freezing, the butane will simply refuse to vaporize and the
lighter will cease to function. I've found this to be the case even if
the lighter is stored in a warm jacket pocket because the moment the
butane gas is exposed to the cold air, it immediately becomes
uncooperative.

A few lighters, such as those made by Ronson, are fueled with
isobutane, which has the same molecular formula (C[4]H[10]) as
n-butane, but a different structural formula (i.e., it's a butane
"isomer"). The boiling point of isobutane is 11°F (-11.7°C), which
makes its cold weather performance better than n-butane, but even so,
vaporization at temperatures below freezing can still be a bit
sluggish. And when temperatures drop below isobutane's boiling point,
these lighters will likewise cease to work at all.

                          [133][Bic-300.jpg]

                         [134][Ronson-300.jpg]

Widely-available Bic lighter * [135](+)

Ronson lighters use isobutane
for improved cold weather use [136](+)
                  ___________________________________

* Bic and most other inexpensive butane lighters are probably filled
with standard n-butane fuel, but because the ingredients are not listed
on the packaging and because related MSDS documents are either not
available or difficult to obtain (mostly from Chinese sources), I
haven't been able to determine the precise fuel components. Ronson, in
contrast, does make MSDS's for its products [137]readily available.
                  ___________________________________

An alternative is a butane candle-style lighter, where the flame port
is moved away from the hand via a metal extension tube. This design
solves the hand-to-flame proximity problem, but not the cold weather
performance issue. And at weights of 2 to 3 ounces, these kinds of
lighters are also significantly heavier than the ½ ounce or less of
standard models. They are, however, very handy for testing alcohol
stoves in a home or laboratory setting.

                     [138][Candle-lighter-300.jpg]

                      [139][Solo-lighter-300.jpg]

Dollar-store candle lighter [140](+)

Solo brand candle lighter [141](+)

Most candle-style lighters use [142]piezoelectric ignition where a
small spark is generated at the end of the extension tube in order to
ignite the butane gas. It turns out that even if the lighter's butane
gas won't ignite, this spark alone is sufficient to start some kinds of
stoves, most notably butane/propane canister models.

Interestingly, I've discovered that the spark alone from some
candle-style lighters can also be used to start a Super Cat. For this
ignition method to work, however, the lighter's spark point must be
located near the tip of the extension tube (rather than at some
distance up the barrel) and the the lighter's tube must usually be
dipped into the alcohol pool for ignition to occur. If lighting the
Super Cat inside a windscreen, this spark-only method still requires
that the lighting hand usually be placed directly above the stove
during the starting process (which makes the user susceptible to burns)
and thus is not recommended.

If you perform a quick search on the web, you'll find that butane
lighters are offered in a huge variety of styles and prices, with some
supposedly "hardened" for use in outdoor survival situations. All told,
however, I'd suggest passing on such products and sticking with the
venerable wooden match that works in a much broader range of
conditions.

Wooden Matches
While we tend to think of the common wooden friction match as pretty
low tech these days, it was considered a marvel of engineering when it
was [143]first introduced in 1827. For lighting most backcountry
stoves, however, it remains a great technology.

Today's wooden matches are generally reliable and safe, allowing the
user to position his or her hand some distance from the flame. They
also perform well under even extremely cold conditions, though
dampness, of course, can sometimes cause problems. The heads of these
matches will likewise usually burn long enough to start most stoves,
even if the wooden splints don't catch fire (as might be the case when
it's very windy).

There are specialty matches, of course, that are designed for use in
extreme environments and that are usually coated with wax or similar
substances to help make them waterproof. For everyday use with a Super
Cat stove, however, these types of matches are probably overkill and
unnecessarily expensively. They're also harder to light, and because
more force is generally required while striking, I find that they also
break fairly easily (at least that's the case with the Coghlan's
waterproof matches pictured below).

                  [144][Matches-storm-proof-300.jpg]

                   [145][Matches-waterproof-300.jpg]

Storm-proof matches from REI [146](+)

Coghlan's waterproof matches [147](+)

Instead, I normally use standard wooden matches in both the
strike-anywhere and safety match varieties ("safety matches" require a
compatible striking surface, normally located on the side of the box).
Wooden matches are typically available in two sizes: (1) the larger
"kitchen match" size which is 2.4 inches long and has a beefier splint
and (2) the smaller "penny match" size, which is 1.7 inches long and
has a thinner wooden splint.

                      [148][Matches_1609-300.jpg]

        I like both the strike-anywhere and the safety versions
    of wooden matches in both the kitchen and penny sizes [149](+)

Because these matches are not waterproof, it's important to store them
in watertight zipper-bags or hard-sided containers. If you're a
"belt-and-suspenders" kind of backpacker (such as myself), you may also
wish to carry a separate supply of storm-proof matches for starting
emergency campfires under particularly challenging conditions.

I will also note that a final advantage of wooden matches is that they
can be easily used with Jim's simple wine cork "match extender"
accessory when lighting a Super Cat that's positioned inside a
windscreen. See the "[150]Accessories" section below for more details.

                     [151][Entender_1616-450.jpg]

               Using a wine cork match extender [152](+)
  __________________________________________________________________

Accessories
  __________________________________________________________________

WINDSCREENS

As noted in the Super Cat companion article, [153]The Fire Bucket Stove
System:

 "...wind is public enemy #1 for any backpacking stove system, but
because of their low flame velocities, alcohol and tablet-based stoves
are particularly susceptible to the disruptive effects of air movement.
Unprotected from even a slight breeze, these stoves can quickly become
unusable."

Pretty much sums up the problem. Though I'm discussing this matter in
the "Accessories" section, an effective windscreen is essentially
mandatory if you actually intend to use your Super Cat (or most any
alcohol stove) in the real world.

Traditional Windscreens
The Internet is replete with easy-to-build windscreen designs that are
usually constructed from some variety of thin sheet metal and populated
with a row of ventilation holes around the bottom. While these designs
are certainly better than nothing, I would contend that there are
better ways to solve the problem.

I won't address all the issues associated with traditional windscreens
here, since I do so at some length in the [154]Fire Bucket article, but
I will say that screen ventilation issues probably create the most
compelling performance problems.

As I also note in the Fire Bucket article:

"...Unless fairly large in size, the ventilation holes used in most of
these designs can offer a fair amount of resistance to air entering the
windscreen, which can starve a flame for oxygen. If the holes are large
enough to permit the free flow of air, then they probably also
contribute to internal air turbulence when the wind blows."

[155]The KiteScreen
One alternative approach to solving some of these problems, discussed
in my [156]KiteScreen article, is a fabric or film-based screen that's
anchored to the ground and that's large enough to protect the entire
cooking setup. This design works particularly well for top-mounted
canister stoves that are otherwise difficult to safely shield from the
wind.

                       [157][Kite_4697-300.jpg]

                       [158][Kite_1184-300.jpg]

Tyvek-based KiteScreen [159](+)

KiteScreen made from
Reynolds oven bags [160](+)

[161]The Fire Bucket Stove System
Another approach, however, is the Fire Bucket itself. The Fire Bucket
starts with a traditional windscreen design, but then incorporates two
key changes that significantly improve wind protection for the Super
Cat (or most any other alcohol stove).

The first change is to replace the traditional row of ventilation holes
with a single, large ventilation port that's situated on the downwind
side of the barrier. The second involves elevating the stove onto an
open-grate burn platform so that it's much less affected by the supply
air flowing into the screen.

The synergy of these two changes also allows for a design that can
serve not only as a windscreen, but also as an efficient stand-alone
stove for burning wood and solid fuel tablets all at a weight (in its
lightest implementations) of about two ounces. It likewise permits the
addition of a series of accessories (like the "wind shade") that can
further enhance its functionality. The photos below show one of my
favorite versions of the Fire Bucket that can be collapsed for
transport on the trail.

The Super Cat and Fire Bucket together form an efficient, lightweight,
integrated stove system that's easy to build and fun to use. For more
information, please see the [162]Fire Bucket article.


                   [163][Stove+Bucket2_1542-300.jpg]

                       [164][Jim3_1340-300.jpg]

Fire Bucket windscreen with
Super Cat alcohol stove [165](+)

Top view shows burn platform [166](+)

                       [167][Jim4_1347-300.jpg]

                       [168][Shade_1409-300.jpg]

Disassembled for transport [169](+)

Shown with optional wind shade [170](+)


OPTIONAL STANDS

If you decide to build a Fire Bucket, you normally won't need a
separate stand for the Super Cat, since the Fire Bucket includes a
built-in, elevated stove platform. If you want to use a traditional
windscreen, however, or if you'd like to build a handy test platform,
an optional stand can make a lot of sense.

In April of 2005, I published plans for a stand that a fair number of
Super Cat users constructed, but a year later, came up a design that I
thought was superior. Below are summarized some of the advantages of
using both a separate stand in general, and of the second-generation
design in particular.

Why Build a Separate Stand?
  * The Super Cat just might be an example of a piece of ultralight
    backpacking gear that's actually a little too light. A fair amount
    of caution must be exercised when using the stove on uneven ground
    or in windy environments, since its miniscule weight (0.2 oz) makes
    it prone to tipping or blowing over under those conditions. The
    small incremental weight of a stand by itself can help stabilize
    the stove.
  * The stand creates a wider base with fewer ground contact points,
    improving stability.
  * The second-generation design allows the stove to be further
    stabilized by staking it to the ground. I often insert a pair of
    slim tent stakes through the two holes in the base of the stand,
    then push them into the ground. This arrangement virtually
    eliminates any possibility of the stove tipping or blowing over.
  * The docking socket feature allows different stoves to be used with
    the same stand since there's no permanent connection required
    between the two. The socket is tight enough, however, to hold the
    stove very securely.
  * The stand protects the bottom of the stove from damage. If the
    stove alone, for example, is placed on a gravel surface, the weight
    of a pot filled with water can sometimes push the bottom's soft
    aluminum into the sharp edges of stones, causing dents and possibly
    even punctures. The stand eliminates this hazard.
  * The airspace trapped under the stand base serves to insulate the
    stove from cold ground. Doing so solves pretty much eliminates the
    conductive heat losses to the ground that can otherwise ruin the
    performance of an alcohol stove when used in cold weather. For use
    at really low temperatures, it's also possible to fill the base
    with fiberglass insulation for even better performance.
  * This same airspace also protects the surface under the Super Cat
    from the heat that's produced by the stove. I can now use the stove
    directly on my workbench without having to worry about cooking the
    surface. The airspace also protects the vegetation under the stove
    when used on the trail.
  * The base allows the effective use of the "snuffer cup" that's
    described below. The snuffer cup seals well against the uniform
    surface of the base, permitting the stove to be easily and reliably
    extinguished at will. A great fuel-saving and safety feature.
  * And finally, the top of the stand base can serve as a priming pan
    for the stove. Adding a few drops of alcohol primer to the base
    just outside the wall of the stove helps the stove come up to
    operating temperature faster and also makes it easier to light the
    stove, especially in cold weather.
    Now, rather than having to reach over top edge of the stove with
    your match or lighter to ignite the alcohol fuel, it's possible to
    simply light the primer outside the stove (the flame quickly
    spreads inside). The outer ridges that are stamped into the base
    can's bottom conveniently keep the priming fuel from spilling over
    the edges.

The Fire Bucket, with its built-in, elevated stove platform, provides
most of the same advantages as a separate stand, especially when used
with its optional stove holder.

Nonetheless, if you'd like to build a stand, plans for both the first
and second-generation models are included in separate documents,
accessible using the links below. By the way, a note for stand fans:
the first-generation plans include links to photos of several discarded
design ideas that you might find interesting.

                      [171][Stand2_0060-300.jpg]

                      [172][Stand1_4400_300.jpg]

Second-generation stand [173](+)

[174]Click here for build instructions

(Recommended version)

First-generation stand [175](+)

[176]Click here for build instructions


THE SNUFFER CUP

If you happen to over-fuel the Super Cat, it's very nice to be able to
extinguish the flame before the alcohol has burned itself out. You
might want to stop the stove to in order to recover unburned fuel, or
maybe for emergency reasons.

As discussed above, if you have an empty cook pot handy, you might be
able to invert it over the stove to deprive it of oxygen, though
because of the relatively large volume of air inside, that process
could take a while. Alternatively, you can build a dedicated,
low-volume vessel that can quickly smother the flame. I call this
accessory a "snuffer cup".

In either case, the vessel you use to smother the Super Cat must form a
reasonably airtight seal against the surface upon which the stove is
positioned. If air can flow under the edges of the smother vessel, it
won't work very well, since oxygen will continue to fuel the flame. For
this reason, the snuffer cup's mating surface is as important as the
cup itself.

Selecting a Can
Any metal can that's slightly larger than the Super Cat itself will
usually work as a snuffer cup, though I've found that an empty 5½ or
6 ounce aluminum pet food can is about perfect for the task. If you
also build the second-generation stand discussed above, it's probably
best to use the same brand of can for both projects to ensure an
optimal fit between the two.

Most of the pet food cans in this size range that I've examined appear
to be almost identical in dimensions, though the bottom ridge pattern
can vary from brand-to-brand. Any of these cans should be tall enough
to cover a Super Cat that's made from the most common of the 3 ounce
can sizes without air gaps.

                   [177][Snuffer-cans_1544-450.jpg]

            Snuffer cup aluminum can possibilities [178](+)
                  Note that the 6 ounce Iams can (L)
             is slightly taller than another popular size

However, if you dock the stove with a stand (which raises the height a
bit), or build the Super Cat from a slightly taller can, you'll
probably also need a taller snuffer cup.

One option is just to search for a can with sufficient "head room".
Among the pet food products inspected, I've noticed that the 5½ ounce
Mighty Dog cans are a bit taller than most. Likewise, the 6 ounce size
of Iams cat food (which may now be available only in the veterinary
formulas) is about 1/8 inch taller than similar products.

Another option is to bend the bottom of the can outward a little by
pressing firmly in the middle or alternatively, by working a blunt
metal tool (such as a socket wrench extender) around the bottom's
ridges in order to flatten and extend them.

Adding a Knob
Though not mandatory, a knob positioned at the top of the snuffer cup
will make the cup easier to handle and can also help keep your fingers
from being burned when the cup is lowered onto a flaming stove.

A small wooden knob can be purchased from a hardware store or easily
constructed from portion of a wine cork (either plastic or natural) or
a scrap of wood. The knob can then be attached to the snuffer cup by
first punching a small hole in the middle of the bottom surface of the
cup along with a similar hole in the middle of the bottom of the knob.
A small diameter sheet metal screw, perhaps ½ inch long, can then be
used to join the two.

                       [179][knob1_1546-300.jpg]

                       [180][knob2_1548-300.jpg]

This small wooden knob was
found at Home Depot [181](+)

This knob was made
from a wine cork [182](+)

Weights
A 5½ or 6 ounce aluminum pet food can will typically weigh about
½ ounce, while a comparably-sized steel can will probably weigh about
1½ ounces. A knob and screw will add about ¼ ounce to either for a
total of ¾ ounce for aluminum and 1¾ ounces for steel.

Fuel Recovery
As noted above, a bonus use for the snuffer cup is to assist in the
recovery of unburned fuel. Because of the Super Cat's side vent holes,
it's difficult to pour unspent fuel directly from the stove back into a
fuel bottle without spillage. Instead, you can quickly dump remaining
the fuel from the stove into the snuffer cup first, and then pour that
fuel from the cup into the bottle.

A small notch that's filed or bent into the inside rim of the snuffer
cup, as shown in the photo below, can facilitate the pouring process
without compromising the cup's air seal. Thanks to Ernie Priestley from
Seattle for this great idea.

                      [183][Notch_1551-450-2.jpg]

                A small notch filed into the inside rim
        of a snuffer cup can assist with fuel recovery [184](+)

Using the Snuffer Cup with a Fire Bucket (or other Windscreen)
You can use a snuffer cup to stop a stove that's operating inside a
windscreen such as the Fire Bucket, but you'll need to modify both the
cup and your technique. That's because lowering a snuffer cup into
place holding its top-mounted knob (while the stove's flames are raging
inside the bucket) is difficult to do without burns.

One solution is to remove the knob, then pass a thin hook or nail-type
tent stake from inside up through the center hole to create a "handle"
for the snuffer cup. Also, when lowering the cup into place over the
Super Cat, it helps to tilt the cup towards the back of the windscreen
as it descends in order to direct the flames away from you hand.

For more information about these modifications (including photos),
please see the [185]snuffer cup section of the Fire Bucket article.

JIM'S MATCH EXTENDER

If you'd like to increase the safety distance between your hand and the
Super Cat when lighting the stove with a wooden match, you can make a
simple extender from an ordinary wine cork (either a natural or a
plastic cork works fine). Such an extender is particularly useful when
it's necessary to reach over the top edge of a windscreen in order to
light the stove. Because alcohol vapors can often accumulate inside the
walls of a windscreen prior to ignition, it's best to keep your hand
outside the screen in case there's a flare-up.

You can construct a match extender by boring a small hole into each end
of the cork using an awl or a nail. These holes, which need be only
about ½ inch deep, can then be used to hold a wooden match at one end,
and some sort of handle at the other. Most corks weigh less than ¼
ounce, and if you're a gram counter, you can even cut the cork in half
to further reduce the weight.

The handle I generally prefer is a thin titanium tent stake (as shown
below), though a slim wooden branch, a Fire Bucket pot support, another
wooden match (preferably spent), Jim's  [186]bagel toaster, or even a
length of coat hanger wire all work well.

                     [187][Extender2_1612-300.jpg]

                     [188][Extender3_1614-300.jpg]

Using a spent match
as a short handle [189](+)

A thin titanium tent stake
makes a longer handle [190](+)

                     [191][Extender1_1611-300.jpg]

                     [192][Extender4_1616-300.jpg]

A small hole is bored into
each end of the cork [193](+)

Positioning the
match extender [194](+)

To use the extender, first insert the handle in one end of the cork,
and an unburned match in the other. Then strike the match with the
extender in place and move the match towards the stove while holding
the handle end.

OTHER ACCESSORIES and MODIFICATIONS

Fiberglass Wicking
One modification that I've tried is lining the bottom of the Super Cat
stove with a small amount of fiberglass insulation, held in place by a
patch of aluminum screen. Some other alcohol stove designs use
fiberglass as a wicking agent, so I was curious to see if there was any
effect on performance. About the only impact it had was to slow the
stove down a bit, with boil and total burn times both increasing by
about 25%. The fiberglass did help keep the alcohol fuel from sloshing
around quite as much (depended on fill level), but I ultimately
concluded that the addition of fiberglass otherwise had little value.

Priming Cord
Some stove builders, such as Jason Klass, have done a good bit of
experimentation with the Super Cat and its derivatives. One idea that
Jason has promoted is wrapping a length of [195]thin Kevlar cord around
the base of the Super Cat a few times to absorb a bit of alcohol
priming fuel. This idea, was I think, adapted from a design originated
by Tinny at [196]minibulldesign.com.

This cord, which serves as an alternative to a priming pan, allows the
stove to be ignited from the outside, while likewise reducing priming
time. The cord would interfere with inserting the Super Cat into a
holder or stand equipped with a docking socket, but if you like the
idea, you could probably wrap the cord around the docking socket
instead. Jason has developed a number of other innovative stove and
windscreen concepts that can be [197]viewed on his website.

Priming Cap and Flame Column Compactor
Partially covering the top opening of the Super Cat with a metal disk
that includes a center hole about 1" in diameter can reduce priming
time from 25 or 30 seconds to perhaps 15 seconds or less without
requiring (as most other priming methods do) any additional fuel.

This method works by absorbing more of the heat that's produced by the
stove just after ignition and feeding it back into the alcohol pool to
accelerate the fuel boiling process.

There are at least a couple of ways to restrict the top opening. One is
to simply cut a disk from aluminum of the appropriate size, make a
center hole, then rest the disk on top of the stove. Unless the disk is
secured, however, it can sometimes "jump" off the stove with a pop when
the accumulated alcohol fumes are ignited.

An alternative is to glue the disk permanently into position using a
high-temperature epoxy such as [198]J-B Weld. I've tried this method
myself, but found that even though the adhesive is rated for use up to
500°F, it tends to eventually fail with use. Nonetheless, it usually
works well enough for as long as it lasts.

In either case, it's important that the top surface of the disk not
extend above the upper lip of the Super Cat, otherwise, the stove might
leak air around the rim and fail to pressurize.

The photos below show two disks cut from the bottoms of 3 ounce pet
food cans. Either round or rectangular holes work fine, though
rectangular holes are easier to make (the one below was carefully cut
with a box opening knife). A metal file can be used after cutting to
clean up the edges.

When in use, the cook pot can be lowered onto the Super Cat as usual
after the priming process (which should now require less time) is
complete.

                       [199][Cap1_1561-300.jpg]

                       [200][Cap2_1564-300.jpg]

These priming caps were made
from the bottoms of
3 ounce pet food cans [201](+)

Priming cap in position
atop the Super Cat [202](+)

Another interesting method, developed by [203]Zen Seeker, requires the
use of an unopened 3 ounce aluminum can. Rather than opening the can
from the top as usual, the user first cuts a hole about one inch in
diameter in the bottom center of the can, then removes the can's
contents through this hole.

The result is an "upside-down-Super Cat" whose side vent holes must be
drilled, rather than punched, since most punches can't work through the
restricted top opening. The principal disadvantage of this design is
that the inverted Super Cat now won't fit into the docking socket used
for the stands discussed above, nor into the optional stove holder that
can keep the Super Cat centered inside of a Fire Bucket windscreen.

On the plus side, concentrating the open Super Cat flame into a more
compact column allows the stove to be used more effectively in what I
call "open burn mode". That is, positioning the cook pot above the
stove on some manner of pot stand, rather than directly on top of the
stove as one normally would. Raising the pot in this way offers another
way to reduce heat output that might be useful for simmering.

The "Swivel Cat"
This final accessory is not actually directly related to the Super Cat
itself, but rather, is a different kind of alcohol stove altogether.

Called the "Swivel Cat" for reasons that are probably apparent from the
photos below, it offers an alternative way to cook at reduced heat
levels. The idea is similar to that behind the "Simmer Cat" discussed
above, except that it allows heat output to be adjusted in real time
while the stove is operating.

The Swivel Cat is not very hot-burning, though, so it's really only
useful for simmering. And unlike the Super Cat or Simmer Cat, it
doesn't include a built-in pot stand, so it requires some type of
independent support (it works great in the Fire Bucket, however).

The Swivel Cat is made from the same kind of 3 ounce aluminum can used
for the Super Cat, except there are no vent holes in the sides.
Instead, a circular disk, slightly larger than the top opening of the
can, needs to be cut from aluminum flashing and attached as a swiveling
lid.

This lid connects to the stove via a small "L" bracket, which is also
cut from aluminum flashing and is installed at the top edge of the
stove as shown below. The lid attaches to the bracket using a single,
loosely fitting rivet or machine screw connection. It also needs to be
installed in such a way that it mates fairly closely with the top rim
of the stove.

        [204][Swivel1_1566-300.jpg] [205][Swivel2_1567-300.jpg]

Low simmer lid position [206](+)

Moderate simmer position [207](+)
        [208][Swivel3_1568-300.jpg] [209][Swivel4_1569-300.jpg]

Fully-opened position reveals
the "L" bracket inside [210](+)

Fully-closed position [211](+)
(Note the "L" bracket rivets on rear wall)

The Swivel Cat uses normal Super Cat fuels and is ignited over the top
rim. Once it's burning robustly, a pot can be positioned at the desired
height above the stove on separate supports. Assuming the stove is
encased in a windscreen, heat output can be increased or decreased as
follows:
  * First, remove the cook pot from its supports. Then, using the end
    of a metal tent stake, rotate the swiveling disk so that it covers
    either more or less of the top stove opening. The more of the
    opening the lid covers, the lower the heat output will be. In fact,
    if the disk is closed all the way, the flame will be extinguished.
  * Once the desired heat level has been obtained, the pot can be
    returned to the cooking position above the stove.

Because there are no ventilation holes, the Swivel Cat will hold almost
2½ fluid ounces of fuel. If filled to capacity and operated at a low
simmer, the Swivel Cat will burn for a very long time before it needs
to be replenished.
  __________________________________________________________________

Resources
  __________________________________________________________________

FURTHER READING

While the Internet abounds with information about alcohol stoves, there
are three online resources that might be of particular value to you.
 1. [212]Backpackinglight.com describes itself as "The Magazine of
    Lightweight Hiking and Backcountry Travel". The staff at BPL,
    especially Will Rietveld and Roger Caffin--who have prepared most
    of the stove-related articles--have consistently conducted the most
    thoughtful, well-balanced and scholarly research that I've seen to
    date in the world of outdoor journalism.
    Their high-quality, in-depth analyses of a wide range of
    backcountry-related subjects has made my $24.99 annual subscription
    fee seem like a great bargain (by the way, I have no affiliation
    with BPL other than as a standard subscriber).
 2. Jason Klass is a fellow backpacker who took an early interest in
    the Super Cat stove and has developed a number of his own
    modifications and enhancements. I'd encourage you to visit his
    [213]nicely-designed website.
 3. Zen Seeker has volunteered a great deal of time and energy to
    develop one of the Internet's "go-to" sites for reliable
    information about backpacking stoves and related subjects. The
    [214]Zen Stoves website is cited multiple times above and is a
    terrific resource for any do-it-yourself stove builder.

USER FEEDBACK

Ever since placing its design concepts into the public domain in 2005,
I've considered the Super Cat to be a work in progress and have
actively encouraged users to develop their own modifications and
improvements.

Over the years, great numbers of Super Cat enthusiasts have been
generous enough to provide feedback, primarily in the form of emails
and online bulletin board postings. Many of these insights remain
accessible through the Base Camp feedback forum (link below).

My hope now is that this updated article, along with the concurrent
introduction of the companion Fire Bucket system, will stimulate a
renewed wave of user-based development.

If you take an interest in the Super Cat, please report back through
the feedback forum on your experiences and recommendations. This "open
source collaboration" (to borrow a phase from the software industry)
will strengthen the design for all of us.

[215]You can submit or read comments about this article here.

CONTACT ME

If you'd like to contact me directly, [216]please do so here.

[217]Top

[218]Home

        Copyright © 2005 - 2010 James E. Wood. All Rights Reserved.

eferences

  1. http://jwbasecamp.com/index.html
  2. http://bb.jwbasecamp.com/
  3. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Super_Cat_1.jpg
  4. http://jwbasecamp.com/Contact.htm
  5. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Super-Cat-3-4-11.pdf
  6. http://bb.jwbasecamp.com/viewforum.php?f=17
  7. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/index-orig.html
  8. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
  9. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Background
 10. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Designs
 11. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Disclaimers
 12. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Materials
 13. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Tools
 14. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Build-Instructions
 15. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Fuels
 16. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Starting-and-Using
 17. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Accessories
 18. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Resources
 19. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/KiteScreen/index.html
 20. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
 21. http://zenstoves.net/
 22. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Beer_1492-600.jpg
 23. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Beer_1492-600.jpg
 24. http://www.ultralightoutfitters.com/stove.html
 25. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Snow-Pots_1495-600.jpg
 26. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Snow-Pots_1495-600.jpg
 27. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Snow600_1499-600.jpg
 28. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Snow600_1499-600.jpg
 29. http://backpackinglight.com/
 30. http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/stoves_tents_carbon_monoxide_pt_4.html
 31. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
 32. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Fuels
 33. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol
 34. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Precautions
 35. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/3oz-cans_1502-600.jpg
 36. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/3oz-cans_1502-600.jpg
 37. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Steel_1488-600.jpg
 38. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Steel_1488-600.jpg
 39. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Tools1_1509-600.jpg
 40. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Tools1_1509-600.jpg
 41. http://www.staples.com/office/supplies/p1_1-Hole-Paper-Punches_10315_Business_Supplies_10051_SEARCH
 42. http://www.misterart.com/g436/Punchline-All-Purpose-Craft-Punches.htm
 43. http://www.harborfreight.com/
 44. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44060
 45. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91510
 46. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Drill-600.jpg
 47. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Unibit-600.jpg
 48. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Drill-600.jpg
 49. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Unibit-600.jpg
 50. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Tools_3389.jpg
 51. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Tools_3389.jpg
 52. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Samples_1504-600.jpg
 53. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Samples_1504-600.jpg
 54. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/English-large.gif
 55. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/English-large.gif
 56. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Metric-large.gif
 57. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Can-empty_1506-600.jpg
 58. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Can-complete_1507-600.jpg
 59. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Can-empty_1506-600.jpg
 60. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Can-complete_1507-600.jpg
 61. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/BeforeCrunch_3393-600.jpg
 62. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/BeforeCrunch_3393-600.jpg
 63. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Crunching_3403-600.jpg
 64. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Crunching_3403-600.jpg
 65. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Completed_3398-600.jpg
 66. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Completed_3398-600.jpg
 67. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/MugMods/index.html#sidebar
 68. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Simmer_1511-600.jpg
 69. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Simmer_1511-600.jpg
 70. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Swivel
 71. http://zenstoves.net/Stoves.htm
 72. http://members.iinet.net.au/~mbuckler/fuel/index.shtml
 73. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol
 74. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol
 75. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol
 76. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Safety
 77. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Petroleum-based
 78. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Msds#United_States
 79. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/MSDS.htm
 80. http://www.goldeagle.com/heet/products.htm
 81. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Safety
 82. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Heet_1513-600.jpg
 83. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Heet_1513-600.jpg
 84. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropanol
 85. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Red-Heet-Flame_1574-600.jpg
 86. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Red-Heet-Flame_1574-600.jpg
 87. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubbing_alcohol
 88. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Fuels_3400-600.jpg
 89. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Fuels_3400-600.jpg
 90. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azeotrope
 91. http://www.ttb.gov/industrial/alcoholfuel_bg.shtml
 92. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/alcoholpermit.pdf
 93. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85
 94. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Petroleum-based
 95. http://www.platy.com/product_detail.aspx?ProdID=36&CategoryID=8
 96. http://evernewamerica.com/products/watercarry/watercarry.html
 97. http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/platypus-lil-nipper-spout-caps.html
 98. http://www.platy.com/product_detail.aspx?ProdID=24&CategoryID=5
 99. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Soda_1515-600.jpg
100. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Fuels_3400-600.jpg
101. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap1_1517-600.jpg
102. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap2_1518-600.jpg
103. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap1_1517-600.jpg
104. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap2_1518-600.jpg
105. http://www.rei.com/product/697843
106. http://www.rei.com/product/605499
107. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap3_1520-600.jpg
108. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap4_1522-600.jpg
109. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap3_1520-600.jpg
110. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap4_1522-600.jpg
111. http://zenstoves.net/FuelStorage.htm
112. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Measure_1530-600.jpg
113. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Measure_1530-600.jpg
114. http://www.brasslite.com/OrderForms/Accessories.html#16oz
115. http://neworleansmarket.com/coffee/index.php?cPath=23_24
116. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Safety
117. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
118. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Lighted1_3406-600.jpg
119. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Lighted1_3406-600.jpg
120. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Lighted2_3427-600.jpg
121. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Lighted2_3427-600.jpg
122. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Snuffer
123. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stove-w-Snuffer_1523-600.jpg
124. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stove-w-Snuffer_1523-600.jpg
125. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Snuffer
126. http://www.rei.com/product/406111
127. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Eye-dropper-600.jpg
128. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Eye-dropper-600.jpg
129. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Accessories
130. http://www.freewebs.com/jasonklass/thesnowcat.htm
131. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Stand
132. http://www.backpackgeartest.org/reviews/Cook%20Gear/Fire%20Starters
133. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Bic-600.jpg
134. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Ronson-600.jpg
135. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Bic-600.jpg
136. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Ronson-600.jpg
137. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat2/MSDS/MSDS%20-%20Ronson.pdf
138. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Candle-lighter-600.jpg
139. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Solo-lighter-600.jpg
140. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Candle-lighter-600.jpg
141. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Solo-lighter-600.jpg
142. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piezoelectric
143. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matches
144. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Matches-storm-proof-600.jpg
145. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Matches-waterproof-600.jpg
146. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Matches-storm-proof-600.jpg
147. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Matches-waterproof-600.jpg
148. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Matches_1609-600.jpg
149. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Matches_1609-600.jpg
150. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/#Extender
151. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Entender_1616-600.jpg
152. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Entender_1616-600.jpg
153. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
154. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
155. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/KiteScreen/index.html
156. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/KiteScreen/index.html
157. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Kite_4697-600.jpg
158. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Kite_1184-600.jpg
159. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Kite_4697-600.jpg
160. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Kite_1184-600.jpg
161. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
162. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html
163. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stove+Bucket2_1542-600.jpg
164. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/images/Jim3_1340-600.jpg
165. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stove+Bucket2_1542-600.jpg
166. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/images/Jim3_1340-600.jpg
167. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/images/Jim4_1347-600.jpg
168. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/images/Shade_1409-600.jpg
169. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/images/Jim4_1347-600.jpg
170. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/images/Shade_1409-600.jpg
171. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stand2_0060-600.jpg
172. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stand1_4400_600.jpg
173. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stand2_0060-600.jpg
174. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Stand2/index.html
175. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Stand1_4400_600.jpg
176. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Stand.html
177. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Snuffer-cans_1544-600.jpg
178. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Snuffer-cans_1544-600.jpg
179. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/knob1_1546-600.jpg
180. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/knob2_1548-600.jpg
181. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/knob1_1546-600.jpg
182. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/knob2_1548-600.jpg
183. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Notch_1551-600-2.jpg
184. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Notch_1551-600-2.jpg
185. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Fire-Bucket/index.html#Smother-platform
186. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Spoon%20Extender/Spoon%20Extender.html#bagel-toaster
187. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Extender2_1612-600.jpg
188. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Extender3_1614-600.jpg
189. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Extender2_1612-600.jpg
190. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Extender3_1614-600.jpg
191. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Extender1_1611-600.jpg
192. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Entender_1616-600.jpg
193. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Extender1_1611-600.jpg
194. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Images/Entender_1616-600.jpg
195. http://www.freewebs.com/jasonklass/supercatwick.htm
196. http://minibulldesign.com/
197. http://www.freewebs.com/jasonklass
198. http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
199. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap1_1561-600.jpg
200. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap2_1564-600.jpg
201. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap1_1561-600.jpg
202. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Cap2_1564-600.jpg
203. http://zenstoves.net/LowPressure.htm
204. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel1_1566-600.jpg
205. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel2_1567-600.jpg
206. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel1_1566-600.jpg
207. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel2_1567-600.jpg
208. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel3_1568-600.jpg
209. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel4_1569-600.jpg
210. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel3_1568-600.jpg
211. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/supercat2/images/Swivel4_1569-600.jpg
212. http://backpackinglight.com/
213. http://www.freewebs.com/jasonklass/index.htm
214. http://zenstoves.net/
215. http://bb.jwbasecamp.com/viewforum.php?f=17
216. http://jwbasecamp.com/Contact.htm
217. http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/index.html
2