path: root/wired.txt

# Notes 

## Vivobarefoot interview

there are many layers 
grounding is still best with barefeet 
but it works with any skin contact
pietzo electra effect / facia is a source of that
skin as a barrier but also connects to the facia
native and non native emf native being sun, earth, earth has a negative charge
negative charge of the earth draw out your posititive charge
inflamation can be categorized as positive charge
free radicals are unbalanced charged cells
blood viscosity tests show grounding has an effect decreases viscosity

Useful for recovery above and beyond systemic inflammation
silver thread grounding socks
lymphatic drainage 
glymphatic fluid brain

grounding reduces systemic inflammation

not for anyone on blood pressure medication. because changing blood viscosity can make the medication too effective


## Emergency Prep

emergency kit
charger
preparedness
extra batteries
can opener
duct tape
sturdy shoes
non-perishable food
diapers
change of clothes
emergency supply kit
contact lenses
battery-powered
cell phone
hand crank radio
personal hygiene items
emergency preparedness kit
survival kits
noaa weather radio
first aid supplies
paper towels
important documents
fire extinguisher
sleeping bags
insurance policies
pet food
hand sanitizer
dust mask
american red cross
prescription medications
shelter-in-place
plastic sheeting
deluxe
wildfires
traveler's checks
go bag
bank account records
consider adding
pliers
phone charger
eyeglasses
severe weather
emergency management




, it may not be possible for them to reach everyone right away. It could take hours, or even days, for assistance to reach you. Basic services such as electricity, water, and communication may be cut off for days, weeks, or longer. It is possible you may need to leave at a moment’s notice.

Being prepared means having your own food, water, and other supplies to last several days. An emergency kit should contain basic items your household needs in the event of an emergency. Being able to take essential items with you quickly is important since you may not have the opportunity to shop or search for supplies.

If rain drops keep falling on your head and you're in a tent



pull walmart links
pull target links

follow up sessions for brainstorming ideas related to in-office presentations
    partnerships
    newsletters
    video


all about the dew point temperature inside your tent. If you have too much insulation (i.e. a great sleeping bag), then the problem is exacerbated since your body has no chance of keeping the inside of the tent above the dew point temperature. Think about your body being like the defroster in your car.
There’s nothing quite like the sound of rain drops on your tent. But condensation dripping from your tent ceiling is no fun.
Tent condensation is a camper’s worst enemy. While it’s impossible to eliminate it entirely, you can keep it in check by following these seven steps.

Before we look at how to keep that tent condensation under control, though, let’s talk about how it actually occurs in the first place.

HOW TENT CONDENSATION IS CREATED
It all comes down to your breath. We exhale upwards of one liter of moisture while we sleep. As the warm water vapor hits the (relatively) colder tent walls, it turns into those pesky water droplets we know as condensation. Next thing you know, you’re camped out in a steam room.

You really want to avoid condensation as much as possible because a) it’s really unpleasant to be stuck in a damp or muggy tent, b) insulation doesn’t work as well when it gets damp, and c) left over time, it can create mildew, which is bad news for your tent and potentially even your health.

Here’s what to do (and not to do) so you can keep that tent condensation as close to zero as possible:

1. PITCH YOUR TENT IN THE SHADE OF A TREE
When you’re looking for a place to set up camp, you want to look for the warmest, least humid spot. Hint: Look for a shady spot under a sturdy tree (seriously sturdy—without the potential for widow-makers to fall on you in the night).

Air under trees is usually warmer than it is in a big open space. This way, the condensation will mostly gather up on the leaves, rather than on your tent.

2. DON’T CAMP RIGHT NEXT TO WATER
We know how tempting it is to set up right next to a babbling brook or a waterhole, but it’s not such a good idea. The closer you are to water, the more humidity. The more humidity, the more potential for condensation. You want to be close to water, but not right at water's edge. Pick a camping spot further back from nearby water sources.


3. CAMP ON HIGHER GROUND
If you have the choice between a low and high point on the ground, go for the latter. Cold air tends to pool in dips in the landscape. When that cold air hits the warmer surface of the tent walls, condensation ensues. Remember that heat rises, so it’s best to camp on slightly higher ground to keep the temperatures inside and outside your tent in balance.

4. DON’T DRY WET GEAR INSIDE THE TENT
If you get caught in the rain, dry your clothes and shoes outside the tent. If you bring your damp clothes into the tent, you’re just creating more humidity. The result? You end up with not only wet clothes, but a soggy tent too! It’s a better idea to hang the clothes outside under a tarp (here’s a nifty clothesline for just that). And bring a change of clothes. Believe us, it’s worth the extra weight.

5. DRY YOUR TENT OFF
Speaking of rain: If it's been bucketing down and you don’t have time to let your tent dry in the sun before you need to pack up and go, at least give it a wipe down with a towel. Separate the rainfly from the inner tent (the rainfly will likely be far wetter than the inner) and pack them in separate stuff sacks. As soon as you have a lunch break or get to your next base, dry your tent in the afternoon sun.


6. GIVE YOUR TENT PLENTY OF ROOM TO BREATHE
If you have a double-walled tent (most designs are double-walled), ensure that it is pitched correctly to ensure maximum air circulation between the rainfly and the inner wall. Tent condensation gets out of control, and fast, when the walls touch.

7. VENTILATION IS YOUR BEST FRIEND
Roll back the rain fly and vestibule door, open every vent and window so the air in your tent can circulate and dehumidify. Don’t forget to let the breeze in either. Set up your tent so the door faces the direction of the wind.

If you follow the above steps, most of the moist air should escape from your tent naturally.


BUT WHAT IF YOU COULD HAVE A TENT THAT COULD MANAGE CONDENSATION FOR YOU?
The hero innovation of our Telos and Alto tents, the Tension Ridge, has made it possible for us to design tents that offer next-level venting that’s adaptable to your needs.


APEX VENTS FOR MANAGING TENT CONDENSATION
Given hot air rises, it seems like an obvious thing to position vents at the highest point of a tent. Yet in all our years of camping, we haven’t come across any other lightweight tents that get this right. So we’ve done it. Unlike most tents, the Apex Vent doesn't require a mesh panel to maintain tension across the fly—so all that hot humid air can escape straight out of the top, unrestricted by any barrier.


HIGHER-WIDER DOORS MEANS MORE VENTILATION
The Tension Ridge also allowed us to integrate bigger doors into our tents. As well as giving you a more expansive view, the bigger doors let more air in and out—they also make it easier to enter and exit the tent.

VERTICAL WALLS CREATE MORE BREATHING ROOM
While many other lightweight tents have aggressively tapered walls, the Tension Ridge means our tents have more vertical walls. This means you won’t be touching the fabric inner or breathing straight onto the fabric—both of which are likely to result in you and your gear getting wet from condensation.


NEED SOME EXTRA AIRFLOW? HERE’S HOW:
If it’s wet, you can orient the foot of the tent towards the wind and open the Baseline Vent. That way, you can increase airflow without accidentally letting the rain in.

When it’s hot and humid, orient the head of the tent towards the wind so the Apex Vent can scoop up all that nice fresh air and the natural pressure will force it down and out through the Baseline vents.

We’ve also made it easy to open and close the vents from the inside of the tent. Cheers to never having to dash out of your tent to shut the vents during sudden onset torrential rain.

WE KNOW MOISTURE IS THE ENEMY
After a long day of hiking, you want to get set up quickly so you can kick back and relax. However, if it’s raining when you get to camp, you have to wait for it to stop before you can set up your tent. That’s the case with many tents, anyway. With our tents, the rain fly is standalone. You can actually put up the rain fly before the inner fly so everything stays nice and dry (including yourself).


STAYING COOL AND DRY THROUGH THREE SEASONS
Through summer, autumn and spring (and warmish winters), our tents hold up through soggy and humid conditions. When compared to other leading lightweight tents, our Alto and Telos encourage up to 60% more airflow and 31% less humidity—keeping you comfortable even when the elements are against you.

REDUCE TENT CONDENSATION WITH ALTO AND TELOS TENT
When you experience a functional design problem, you can either choose to live with it or innovate. After many nights waking up to dripping tents, we chose to innovate so we could bring you lightweight tents that stay cool and dry: The Alto and the Telos.
## Best Puffer Jackets

The down puffer jacket offers the best warmth-to-weight ratio of any piece of cold-weather clothing you can own. It's also one of those essentials that, when you need a good down jacket, chances are, nothing else will do. More times than not a good puffer is the difference between comfort and misery.

To save you from the misery we've spent months testing down parka of all shapes, sizes, and fill power to find the best jackets for around town, out on the trail, and in the serious, dangerous cold of high altitude and high latitude adventure. Whether you're headed to the top of the Empire state building or Denali, we've got the right winter jacket for you.

What to Look For in a Down Jacket




water-resistant
packable
warmest
parka
down fill
adjustable
patagonia
winter jacket
cold-weather
water-repellent
teryx
the north face
tester
climates
high-quality
puffer coat
uniqlo
toasty
dwr
boxy
outerwear
best down jackets
lightest
quilted
down hoodie
cinch
hand pockets
cotopaxi
xxs
breathability
rab
outdoor gear
down parka
synthetic insulation
down insulation
backcountry
responsible down standard,
mountain hardwear
light rain
down puffer
fleece-lined
arc’teryx cerium
primaloft
base layers
baffles
ripstop nylon
stretchy
recycled nylon
retro
rei
rain jackets
patagonia down sweater
drawcord
chest pocket
down fill power
running errands
insulated jacket
nylon shell
wind-resistant
ultra light down jacket
hydrophobic
rds-certified
coldest
xxl
canada goose
specs
ghost whisperer
fuego
800-fill-power
warmth-to-weight ratio
range of motion
outdoor research

## Nikon Z6III Review

Nikon's latest Z6 camera brings the camera makers top end autofocus to a more reasonably priced, mainstream camera. In nearly every way that matters The new Z6III matches or outperforms the company's much pricier, top end Z8.

Although it's not perfect, the Z6III is one of the best full-frame mirrorless cameras on the market, and it's capable of handling pretty much any photographic situation most of us are going to encounter. Landscape and wildlife pros will probably stick with their Z8s for the higher resolution sensor, but for everyone else, this is the Nikon to get.

## Leaping Forward

Nikon's new Z6III is a much bigger upgrade than the previous version was to the original. The Z6II was an incremental update that wouldn't have been worth the upgrade if you had the original. The good news for Nikon fans is that the Z6III is a huge upgrade that brings most of the flagship features of Nikon's far more expensive Z8 and Z9 to the Z6.

The body design has been tweaked, though it's not hugely different from the Z6II. The camera weighs 1.7 pounds, which balances well even with larger lenses and Nikon's grip is the biggest I've used, making it comfortable and easy to carry. Unlike the retro-inspired Zf, there aren't a ton of external controls here. There's a dial to change shooting modes, along with several other dials, buttons, and scroll wheels, which all give you plenty of customizable options that you can set up as you like, but it lacks that film-inspired feel of the Zf.

The flagship features in the Z6 mark 3 are the new, partially stacked sensor (more on that below), an updated, very fast and accurate 3D subject tracking system, and ProRes encoding for video. There are also a slew of great little updates that make everyday shooting a better, smoother experience.

The Z6III features a new 24-megapixel CMOS sensor, which Nikon call a "partially stacked" sensor, by which it means you get some of the performance benefits of a stacked CMOS sensor, like those found in the Nikon Z8 and Z9, but not the downsides, or at least less of the downsides. 

Stacked sensors ahem, stack, the processing circuits right on top of the sensor itself (technically it's behind the sensor), which means the RAM is actually directly tied into the sensor, making for incredibly fast readout. This is what allows top cameras to shoot upwards of 12 RAW images per second without the viewfinder blacking out. 

The downside to stacked sensors is that you run into some rolling shutter distortion with moving objects and there is often less dynamic range. The Z6III's partially stacked sensor is an attempt to lessen those downsides and it mostly works. The dynamic range here does take a hit, about 1-stop less dynamic range from the base ISO up through 800 ISO compared the Z6II (based on the charts at [Photons to Photos](https://photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm) and my testing in the field). The bad news is that this seems to be true whether you're shooting mechanical or electronic shutter.

A full stop of dynamic range is quite a bit, but in months of shooting with the Z6III, I didn't encounter any situations where I found myself wishing I'd used my Sony (which beats it in dynamic range), and that includes some very high contrast scenes like shooting snow covered ground in full sunlight. So, there is dynamic range loss compared to, well, pretty much every other sensor in this class, but you're unlikely to notice it in most conditions.

Now the good part of the partially stacked sensor: the massive speed upgrades. The burst speed is up to 14 frames per second with continuous autofocus using the mechanical shutter and 20 fps when using electronic shutter. Those figures are both shooting RAW images. If you were to go to JPGs you can get 60 fps, and if you want to shoot JPGs at a 1.5x crop you can shoot 120 fps. There's also a new IBIS system that offers up to eight stops of stabilization.

Another huge upgrade is the 5.76-million dot viewfinder, which has a blazing fast 120hz refresh rate and is insanely bright and wonderful (it supports full HDR color space). The back panel isn't bad either with a 2.1-million dot display and full articulation which makes it easy to shoot video from pretty much any angle.

To my mind, the biggest reason to upgrade to the Z6III from any of the earlier versions is the massive autofocus upgrade. Compared to the Z6II the mark 3 blazing fast and more importantly accurate. I shot several of my son's basketball games with the Z6III (with Nikon's 70-200 f/2.8 lens) and while there were a few times that subject tracking seemed to miss for a frame or two maybe once a game, for the most part it was spot on.

What I found fascinating (and so far as I know unique to this camera) is that the subject tracking works with legacy lenses as well (e.g. lenses without autofocus). I put my trusty old Nikon Series E 75-150 lens on the Z6III (using [this adapter](https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-Adapter-Mirrorless-Camera-NZNK/dp/B003JFRVD2)), and was able to track subjects across the frame. Obviously the camera can't focus for you, but the white box around the subject turns green when you hit focus, which makes manual focusing moving subjects considerably easier than the zoom-to-focus system I typically use. It's a bit of a niche feature, but I'm hoping other camera makers pick up on it.

Where the upgrades to the Z6III really shine are the new video capabilities, which very nearly match the much more expensive Z8. The Z6III is capable of shooting full-frame oversampled 4K 60p video. There's even an option to shoot 6K 60p RAW video, but to do that you'll have to use Nikon's N-RAW rather than ProRes RAW (the only video editing software I could find that supports N-RAW is the paid version of Davinci Resolve, for Final Cut Pro you'll need to transcode first). About the only camera with more video editing options is the Panasonic GH7, but that's not a full frame sensor.

You might worry that with the loss of dynamic range from the partially stacked sensor the video is going to be subpar. It's not. The dynamic range in video is excellent. However, Nikon's default N-Log LUT, which is what you see when you opt for the View Assist feature (which attempts to show what your Log footage will look like after color grading) is really contrasty. Far more than you'd what which at first led me to believe I was loosing highlights. When I finally looked at that video in an editor though, it was fine. It was stunning in fact. This is the best looking video I've ever shot using any camera (to be fair, I haven't yet tested the GH7).

If you do much research on the Z6III you'll probably run across some examples of a strange flickering effect that happens to shadows when you shoot N-Log video at very high ISOs. To really see it you need to underexpose and then push everything 4 or 5 stops—a situation that's unlikely to happen in the real world—but if you do that you'll see the blacks in the image kind of pulse. It's strange, you can see it in a video here. I was able to reproduce it with some effort. It is definitely an issue to be aware of, but for most people, this is never going to come up.

Finally a note on weather sealing and performance. The Z6III does not get an IP rating, but I used it in pretty heavy rain and had no issues. Nikon's press materials say that it has "dust and moisture-sealing to the same level as the professional Z8." It wasn't until I looked that up that I noticed the minimum operating temps are listed at -10°C/14°F. I exceeded that, shooting several early winter mornings where the temps where in the 0-5F range and well, I didn't even think about it until now, which suggests perhaps there is some latitude there. At the high end, I did not have a chance to use it at high ambient temps, but I did do a 4K 60p video test at room temp (72F) and found that camera never overheated, though my memory card did get alarmingly hot. 

If you're looking for a hybrid camera capable of great images and excellent video, the Z6III is the best I've tested to date. The dynamic range of photos is better in competitors like the Sony A7IV or the Canon R2, so that's something to keep in mind, but the video capabilities here outstrip both of those camera. If you want one camera that's damn good at nearly everything the Nikon Z6III is the camera to get.






Leica notes:


diagonal of the sensor it is what see, same perspective as the eye. 43mm lens in the q3.

best of both worlds. no menus, no review. 2024 70th anniversary of the M series. Leica M3 1954. 

## Action cams, underwater domes: https://www.amazon.com/Diving-Trigge-Underwater-Waterproof-Accessories/dp/B08L68TJ72/r https://www.amazon.com/GEPULY-Waterproof-Housing-Underwater-Photography/dp/B08TTP2KB8


## birding update:
don'ts - dye in hummingbird feeders, bread, etc seagulls
t-shirts
    bird nerd
## terms
EPC Earnings Per Click: an affiliate marketing term that refers to the average amount of money you earn each time someone clicks one of your affiliate links. 
CVR Conversion Rate: a marketing metric that tells you how many users are converting on your website
AOV Average Order Value. This is an eCommerce metric that indicates the average amount a customer spends during each transaction.
GMV Gross Merchandise Volume: shows the total sales value for merchandise sold through a marketplace over a specific time frame.
CPA Cost per acquisition: financial metric that is used to measure the revenue impact of marketing campaigns
CAC Customer Acquisition Cost: see above

# Scratch

# Merino Base Layers

long sleeve
women's
hoodie
leggings
midweight
balaclava
half zip
heavyweight
mid layer
short sleeve
t-shirt
base layer crew
base layer top
cold weather
men's base layer
midweight base layer
quarter zip
quick-drying
smartwool
trail running
women's base layers

campfire coffee




# Darktable

Every great piece of software starts with a problem. Good software solves the problem. Great software so elegantly solves the problem we forget that it ever existed. Writing machine code was a problem. Enter the compiler. Try finding someone who remembers days when writing machine code was the only way to program.

Elegance is in the eye of the beholder of course. Everyone sees elegance in their favorite text editor, though others may not. Some see elegance in various ways of the fibonnaci sequence, or writing a Perl script in the shape of a dolphin. tk etc

If I were picking the ultimate in elegance I would pick something that might seem obscure, but borders on the magical when you really think about it. It's not just one piece of software, but a chain of things that enable you to transform something you've seen in the real world into something that exists on your screen.




For me this is Darktable. Darktable is a RAW image editor. It's in same vein as Adobe Lightroom, except that it's far more powerful, and open source to boot. 












## Darktable alt

One of the great myths of free software (free as in freedom, not necessarily free as in beer) is that if it doesn't work the way you like, you can take the code, modify it to suit your needs, and go on your merry way. This is the cornerstone of the Free Software Foundations argument for why free software is better than proprietary software. 

While this is technically true—the provisions for copying, modifying, and redistributing are governed by the licence—it ignores the social reality of programming. There is more to software than code. 

The code is perhaps the least important part of a software project, particularly a large software project. All software starts with a problem. Good software solves the problem. Great software moves beyond the problem entirely. Which is to say that code must be there, but at some point in the life of a software project the code takes a back seat to the other two elements at play, the human elements, the developers and the users.

These are the two elements that determine the fate of the code (again, taking for granted that the code does in fact solve the problem). 

Perhaps the oddest part of programming is that these two factors, the producers and the users often end up producing a tension that can make or break projects. In the best cases this tension drives the project forward. From what I've witnessed over the years in the free software community successful projects have great leadership, whether that's a very talented individual or a governing body of individuals. What makes a great leader is difficult to say, it seems to vary by project even. 

While there are doubtless exceptions, most major project splits I've witnessed have been related to personalities within the project more than the capabilities of the code. Think LibreOffice, which spun off of OpenOffice in major part because the developers wanted a more egalitarian project structure, or NextCloud, which was forked from OwnCloud in part because, again, there were cultural differences between developers and the parent company. There are plenty of other examples. WordPress forked from b2, MariaDB from MySQL, Tenacity from Audacity.

In every case the project that ends up continuing is the one that draws in the most developers and most users.  

Software without developers quickly dies. This is obvious. What's less obvious is that software without users quickly does the same. Developers need users. The relationship between the two is what makes software more than code, more human. 

When we make something public a certain amount of control of that thing slips out of our hands. This is true of any writing, software, fiction, even this column will no longer be exclusively mine once it leaves my notebook. Somewhere in the process of publishing it, I fade to the background, the reader comes to the foreground. What matters now isn't what I have written, but what you think of it. These words don't belong to you in a legal sense, but in reading it you become part of a conversation and any community that surrounds it.

The same is true in software development. Whether you are a contributor or just use a piece of software, you are a part of the conversation that surrounds that software and whatever community may exist around it.

As with communities in other parts of life, some software communities are better than others. 

Therefore, you have
certain responsibilities if you distribute copies of the software, or if
you modify it: responsibilities to respect the freedom of others


The conversation and community look different depending on where you stand. 

Personally I don't use software made by people I don't like. 

Somehow segue to darktable.


One of the more interesting examples of software

like undeveloped film : a raw image can be developed by software in a non-destructive manner to reach a complete image that resolves every pixel in a RGB color space. Raw development adjustments include color, contrast, bjurightness and details recovery. A given raw dataset can be developed many times with different adjustments.

When Adobe moved Lightroom to a subscription model I started looking around for alternatives. I tried a few, but quickly settled on Darktable. It has the same conceptualization as Lightroom—it is both a photo file manager and RAW image editor—that it felt familiar even if all the tools and workflow was different. 

According to the commits in Git, Darktable came on the scene in 2009. I believe I first began using it in 2010. 


So it is literally the raw recording of the camera sensor. It's not even an image file as I understand it, it's just raw data, which is why you need a program like darktable or lightroom to display it.
4:32 PM
But it gives you more editing capabilities than jpg.
4:32 PM
And ultimately, when you're done tweaking it, you export it to JPG, TIFF, PNG or whatever
4:33 PM
Jason Kehe
 ahh, fun
4:34 PM
so the column is about darktable - which is obviously NOT a programming language - but, sure, it kinda sorta qualifies as machine-speak in a way, right?
4:36 PM
sng
 yeah because I really want to talk about the user/programmer relationship. the give and take (give and build?) that happens there. I'm just going to use darktable as an example of how that works in both good and bad ways.


# Operating Systems Ranked by Usefulness

1) Linux
2) Nothing. Nothing is even close, which is why Linux is running the server you're reading this on to the seat back display on planes, to your ATM, to the cash register at the coffee shop.
3) Android/macOS. macOS has become so nagging even Gruber is complaining. https://daringfireball.net/2024/08/the_mac_is_a_power_tool
4) iOS
5) Windows
# Blurbs

## Urbz Window Planter 

If space is really tight, consider the Urbz Window Planter, a small plastic orb that moves your counter top garden to the wall. It will attach, and I mean really, solidly attach, to any non-porous surface—windows, a tile backsplash, bathroom mirror, and more. I even got it to stick to some very smoothly varnished wood, although that wasn't quite as secure. These little planting pods are also easy to move around if you change your mind about where to put them.

There's a water catcher so your floor won't get wet, and I was also pleasantly surprised to find that window plantings did not fry in summer or suffer from our cold winter. You will want to stick with sun-loving plants if you put the Urbz in a window, but I had great results growing everything from succulents to herbs in the course of my testing. —Scott Gilbertson

## Root Pouch